The Berlin fashion week is characterized by an oppressive feeling, but also of great hope. While the world is shaped by crises and uncertainty, designers see: inside for the autumn/winter season 2025, back to another time and thus weigh themselves at least for a moment in freedom of worry and harmony. In the meantime, other brands may work on their own experience and initiate the self -healing process with a dark collection. The ups and downs at a glance.
From the rail to the racetrack
Haderlump transports his guests to an S-Bahn depot in the Schöneweide district of Berlin, where a stop is built between the trains. The label tells the individual stories of travelers who meet and at least share a moment. The collection also went on a journey through time in the middle of the 20th century, in which classic looks with hats and fracks shaped the cityscape. Asymmetrical cuts, layers and varying and wide pieces create new silhouettes. Details such as a trill whistle on a silver chain in combination with a vest indicate the character of a conductor.
Inspired by the racetrack and fast speedsters, Colrs brings a piece of summer and Italian lightness to Berlin. The designer brings the “effortless coolness factor” by the former Fiat leader Gianni Agnelli and the self-confidence of racing drivers of the 50s such as Stirling Moss and Juan Manuel Fangio on the catwalk. Details of car races such as the checks of the target flag and an auto logo meet casual suits and sweaters that are loosely thrown over the shoulders. The concept is rounded off by Italian lettering such as “Ciao Bella” and the reference to various Italian metropolises.
Maternal protection
Marie Lueder lets her guests immerse themselves in a mythical world that connects through design with modernity. Born in Hamburg, the native combines the robes of medieval characters and mythical creatures with current sports and workwear. In the current “The Shell” collection, she also researches archetypes of the 21st century, such as the hooligan or decadent romantic, it says in the show notes. This is how knight’s caps, juggler shoes with curved tips meet mesh tops, jerseys and workwear. Wall carpets of the 19th century and artistic curtains are also part of Lueder’s work, which were integrated in both set design and the collection. Werwolves also seem to have found a special place. They were conjured up by synthetic fur and styling elements such as long, arched fingernails and “blood-smeared” teeth.
Clara Colette Miramon invites you to the St. Thomas church in the Kreuzberg district on Sunday. At the center of her collection “Maria has helped” St. Mary and the strength, dedication and resilience of a mother. At Miramon, it is reinterpreted as a “cool goth mom” and wrapped in black velvet dresses and art fur, which meet jackets, corsets and a breastplate on buffers. The designer also brings details such as decorations of the church facade as a detail in the neckline of clothes. In terms of color, the collection particularly rely on black, which were supplemented by isolated accents such as Bordeaux.
At Richert Beil, too, maternal care or emotional and physical exhaustion is the focus of this activity. In the Fichtbunker, who was supposed to offer mothers and their children in the Second World War, voices of blurring children and then the screeching of a baby. In addition, a dark collection runs, which is characterized by a lot of black, latex and leather look. Cocooning, i.e. the pupation, seems to play an important role. The models are partly wrapped in the pieces and the head of tight -fitting hoods and extended silhouettes – like a shirt that is buttoned over the hair .. Various layers reinforce this thoughts.
The Berliner brand GmbH, which after many shows in Paris for the second time in its hometown, has been inspired by its own past for autumn/winter. The Designduo Benjamin Huseby and Serhat ISIK have looked at the memories of past and browsed in the archive to find ideas from a time when the world seemed less threatening and stable than the current one, according to the show emergency. Elements and looks that might be less the focus in previous collections also get a new stage.
The designers also sought consolation in the works of the Norwegian poet Gunvor Hofmo, which are characterized by loss, isolation and melancholy. But grace and elegance are also part of the FW25 collection, with Huseby and Isik being inspired by their fathers dressed in suits. The collection plays with the silhouette of the suit, also releases your shoulders and complements it with details such as art fur. Outerwear pieces such as long coats and sporty bomber jackets also play a role. The brand combines adjacent pieces such as tight suit pants with further outer clothing and creates different silhouettes. Suits also stand out under a slight tulle surge, which creates an exciting dynamic of the materials.
Joyful debut by Andrej Gronau
Andrej Gronau also reminiscent for his Berlin debut. For FW25, he deals with kitsch who reminds him of home, explains the designer after the show. He interprets the wall decoration of his grandma, the lametta from the last Christmas party and the treasures of flea markets in a colorful collection, in which not only a large color palette, but also patterns such as strips, stars and flowers and materials. The playful collection plays with layers, volume and detail like a large loop that adorns cardigans and sweaters.
