Cotton vs. polyester – how a supposed cotton ban caused waves

The article that likely started the rumor about a possible EU-wide cotton ban by 2030 was a simple one – just a few short paragraphs portraying cotton as an “environmental problem”, backed by questionable figures and a supposed cotton ban based on actual laws ( CSRD and CSDDD). Considering the source – a fashion company that uses some alternative materials and a lot of recycled polyester – the case should have been closed and the article dismissed as promotional content.

But that didn’t happen. Numbers were seen as facts and the potential cotton ban as a certainty. The industry quickly split into two camps – one for cotton and one against (similar to the vaccination debate a few years ago).

What divides the industry?

How could this happen? The strong reaction shows that the industry is divided, perhaps even uncertain, about how to proceed. In the future, clothing must be sustainable, even circular, and take the entire life cycle of a garment into account. And that starts with the origin of the materials – the oil or cotton fields in today’s scenario. While the cotton lobby points to the many benefits of the natural material, the polyester lobby does the same with the petroleum-based material and its recycling potential.

But pitting one against the other misses the point – we live in times of technological advancement where fibers can be made from almost anything – banana leaves, pineapple leaves, cacti, coffee grounds, apple seeds, lotus, kapok, seaweed; even from air. Each fiber and the resulting yarn and fabric have unique properties such as resistance to mold, oil absorption, sound absorption, UV resistance and self-healing.

Therefore, it’s not about one material trumping the other, but rather about making the most of the amazing range of materials available to us (some of which are still in their early stages). So it’s about using and bundling their unique powers, as some may only develop in combination with other materials.

For example, as a person who lives in a tropical climate with temperatures above 30 degrees Celsius all year round, I dare polyester lovers to spend even a single day in polyester clothing in these conditions – sweating, sweat stains, smell and a general unpleasantness feeling would be the unpleasant consequences. Cotton (and other natural fibers), which are sweat-absorbing, antibacterial, and odor-resistant, feel much better in this weather.

Use the uniqueness of the material

Similarly, someone who is exposed to a lot of rain throughout the year (or during the monsoon season) would not choose cotton clothing, but might opt ​​for polyester or other fabrics that are moisture-resistant and quick-drying. The same goes for hospital clothing – doctors and nurses need clothing that is stain and chemical resistant. However, the best medical clothing in winter and dry weather can be a blend of cotton and polyester.

So the idea is not to pit one material against another or to ban certain materials, but to use the best possible option depending on the intended use, climate and other circumstances. The need of the hour is the key word – or to paraphrase a well-known saying: When life gives you mountains of old clothes, make new clothes out of them. Only then can we develop garments that offer the best for people, planet and progress.