LMilan Fashion Week is in full swing. Today in the spotlight, on the third day of MFW, Friday February 23, 2024, the Gucci fashion show designed by Sabato De Sarno. But also the long-awaited debuts of Walter Chiapponi from Blumarine and the new chapter of Tod’s.
From Versace, in addition to Fedez in the front row, rebel women parade. And Marni returns to Milan with Kanye West. Here’s everything we saw on the catwalk at MFW on the third day of fashion shows.
Gucci, brick by brick
Brick by brick comes a great house – says a famous nursery rhyme. Saturday De Sarno continues its signature construction Gucciand for the parade Autumn-Winter 2024/2025 adds new components. The starting point? The wardrobewhich it basically is every woman’s home. Suitable for filling it, the looks seen on the catwalk, which range between different uses and environments. It starts with jackets and polo sweaters with oversized proportions worn like mini dresses over high cuissardes during the day, arriving in the evening with the bustier dress with a wide slit worn over the same, desirable shoes (already a must-have). The pieces in the middle: the men’s coats decorated with crystals and sequins, the pea coats with black or colored leather inlay, the bomber jacket with the English placket, a practical buttoning hidden on the back. But also tops and micro dresses lingerie in lace with veiled transparencies, assembled twinsets, screwed skirts.
Bricks that fit together perfectly, composing an elegant, simple, functional wardrobe. The vacant spaces are filled thanks to the accessories, with the presence of two new ones bags: one with a flat and holey logo, with a shape and a name that gets into your head, GG Milan; the other, a half moon inspired by equestrian motifs from the Gucci archive, equipped with handle.
«Looking for a void in the folds that wants to be filled», after all, is the designer’s aim for the next cold season. All to live in.
Versace, rebellious elegance
Subversive. She is a woman through and through punk the one that crosses the catwalk of Versace for the next Autumn-Winter 2024/2025. Less sexy and aggressive to the eye, but at the same time more and more convinced of herself and of her charm. A message that passes through the wardrobe tweed miniskirts with bold colours, transparent shirts, total red mini dresses that recall the texture of a lipstick, indigo denim suits and rigorous dresses with white swallowtail collars, used-effect leather midi skirts. To be freely composed with accessoriesfrom bags characterized by the new plongé leather to shoes with a bold design.
«This collection has a rebellious character and a kind heart» points out Donatella Versace. A good girl’s wardrobe, which at times transforms, giving free rein to her instincts. The look is essential like never before, immediate, instinctive. A bit like the choice, in the front row, of the friend Fedez.
Blumarine, return to love
Walter Chiapponi brings his first collection to the stage Blumarine at Milan Fashion Week 2024. The new creative director of the brand founded by spouses Anna Molinari and Gianpaolo Tarabini in 1977 has «searched the archive and found what he liked». With a loving look, we add: the fashion show is a hymn to feelings. Starting from the end, the tribute to his deceased friend, Davide Renne, the Moschino – Chiapponi designer walked the runway wearing a shirt with his name in rhinestone letters.
First, a slew of outfits with adolescent memories, which look closely at the brand’s rich past: tapestry-effect coats and lingerie dresses with floral motifs, mesh t-shirts, animalier tights. The most innovative pieces, the logo leather shirts to wear over mini dresses, the knitted onesies with polo collars, the colored leather overcoats. And the inevitable t-shirt I love you. A pair of men’s moccasins is enough for this young girl’s feet. Budding style, lots of heart.
The restart of Tod’s
The new chapter of. starts from via Messina in Milan, in the historic tram depot in front of the Darsena Tod’swith the collection for the next Autumn-Winter 2024/2025 signed by the new designer Matteo Tamburini. A slow, thoughtful start, which starts from the heart of the brand, as well as from a symbolic place for the city: a fixed starting point, the Made in Italyfocused on craftsmanship.
Here comes new interpretations of a wardrobe true to itself, from the nappa trench coat to the men’s coat, from capes to wool twill dresses, knitted twinsets, tailored shirts with a wild spirit and cigarette trousers. The format icons It Shoesas the Rubber and equestrian boots, are gracefully renewed thanks to small details, while new maxi Texan belts encircle the waist. Midi dresses add one-shoulder cuts, skirts in the evening are covered in sparkles. A wardrobe that retains a certain charm, pjust like public transport of yesteryear.
The other rooms of MSGM
Other rooms. But always a versatile wardrobe capable of being proudly displayed through the streets of the city, among historic cafés and gatherings with the right people. The brand of Massimo Giorgetti continues to follow the path that led him to success. On the catwalk of MSGM a new generation of women of indefinite age, but who know exactly how to dress, parades. And where to go, be it the mythical The Côte Basquethe old New York City restaurant loved by Truman Capote whose atmospheres come to life in the collection, or the pastry shop Gattullo with which the brand recently signed an everything co-lab hype.
Wardrobe doesn’t just look at the upcoming series everyone’s talking about, Feud: Capote vs. The Swans. The gaze is broader and focuses on the contemporary. As in a script, oversized sheepskin coats, romantic micro dresses with tone-on-tone floral motifs, tops with embroidered swans, decorated jeans, lace turtlenecks, shiny leather trousers and midi dresses with maxi polka dots parade compactly. . A bourgeois wardrobe with a touch of glamour, but the “right” one. To be combined with a good bubble and a canapé.
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