P.order word: experiment. Day 4 of Milan Fashion Week Autumn Winter 2022/2023 sees the impetus of old and new glories as protagonists. If the parade of Sweet and Gabbana puts aside the classical codes in favor of the metaverse, the debut of Matthieu Blazy from Bottega Veneta it is done with naturalness and a newfound simplicity. To applaud them, respectively, two timeless divas, Sharon Stone And Julianne Moore. And while Trussardi unveils its new course, Jil Sander And Marni consolidate their heritage.
The virtual heroines of Dolce & Gabbana
Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have no doubts: the future is metaverse. Immediately after the launch of #DGFamily, the Nft (Non Fungible Token) community in collaboration with the Unxd marketplace platform, the duo presents a futuristic vision of its DNA on the catwalk. The performers, female heroines who seem to come out of a video game.
A look by Dolce & Gabbana FW 22/23 (Photo: Imaxtree).
THE 90 looks of the Dolce and Gabbana fashion show mix reality and imagination: fewer prints and majolica, more modern and technical materials, such as latex, metal, new jersey and nylon. The high craftsmanship this time is left to young people, from Gianpiero D’Alessandrocartoon-designer involved in the creation of some graphics on t-shirts and sweatshirts, a Miss Sohee, the South Korean designer who presents her richly decorated dresses in Milan. Guest of the Maison in the front row, Sharon Stone: the champion of timeless style.
Sharon Stone at the Dolce & Gabbana fashion show (Photo: PR).
The new, natural course of Bottega Veneta
After the departure of the creative director Daniel Lee, Bottega Veneta presents the first collection designed by Matthieu Blazy, historical insider of the style office. 69 outings for men and women that strike for simplicity: the tank top over the jeans, shiny leather trench coats, tuxedo suits, oversized cabans, patchwork dresses. The focus is as always on accessories: bags first and foremost, from bon ton shoulder bags to intertwined hobos with metal handles to be carried by hand to bucket bags to be worn on the shoulder with a long strap. On the feet, asymmetrical décolleté and high cuissardes. A natural debutfree of excesses and forcing.
A look by Bottega Veneta FW 22/23 (Photo: Imaxtree).
To applaud him, Julianne Moorehistorical friend of the brand – whatever the guide – followed by the star of Euphoria Jacob Elordi.
Trussardi underground
Between pandemics, ups and downs, Trussardi hadn’t paraded for a while. The rebirth on the fourth day of Milan Fashion Week 2022 at the shop and café under renovation, on the ground floor of the Palazzo Trussardi. The duo of designers at their first collection for the brand Serhat Isik and Benjamin A. Huseby, formerly the soul of GmbH, originally from Berlin. And as underground as the air that pulls in the city is the atmosphere of the show: industrial music breaks the mold, creating ripples in the mirrored Mylar walls that surround the catwalk. On stage, 100 gram down jackets revisitedlow-waisted trousers, micro skirts and maxi blousons in leather but also cargo denim and hooded sweatshirts, in a minimal palette. A new beginning for the historic greyhound brandwhich appears, like the location of the fashion show, still all in the pipeline.
A look by Trussardi FW 22/23 (Photo: Getty Images).
The Stoics: Jil Sander, Marni, Ermanno Scervino
There are those who veer towards change and those who enhance their aesthetics. Lucie and Luke Meier by Jil Sander, for example: again that sartorial and sculptural taste, essentially elegant, that distinguishes their work. The stylistic features are increasingly recognizable – from butter-colored to geometric silhouettes, from coats and bias-cut jackets to V-shaped midi dresses. in laser lace.
Marni is still betting on immersive performancethis time among a heap of rubble and worn and lived are once again the clothes designed by Francesco Risso. The signs of the time as indices of character and personality, beyond fashion. Craftsmanship and femininitythe cornerstones of the second wardrobe Ermanno Scervinonot without a touch of rediscovered sensuality: embroidery, lace and knitwear remain the protagonists, but with a dose of color and unprecedented transparencies.
A look by Ermanno Scervino FW 22/23 (Photo: Imaxtree).
The irreverent Ports 1961 and Philosophy
Karl Templer presents the new Fall Winter 2022/2023 collection by Ports 1961, a concentrate of tailored suits, long and fluid dresses or mini and metallic ones on the other hand, fur blousons and woven oversized sweaters, worn with high-soled lace-up boots. The protagonist, a woman who knows how to play with the wardrobe, a bit like Bella Hadidqueen of the catwalk.
Bella Hadid parades for Ports 1961 FW 22/23 (Photo: Imaxtree).
The irreverence towards every schematism, the same seen by Philosophy by Lorenzo Serafini, which plays with the net, bustiers, vinyls and transparencies. Night and day blend together as in an evening in a Berlin Kabarett from the early 1900s. The muse? The most irreverent of all, Marlene Dietrich.
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