Milan Fashion Week day 4: Bottega Veneta fashion show

Bottega Veneta, surprise parade

Matthieu Blazy’s third fashion show for Bottega Veneta seals the identity of the brand under the aegis of the creative director. On stage a polyphony of different looks, whose common denominator is Italian savoir faire. A parade, rather than a fashion show, of personalities in outfit form: unexpected and unusual, like masks – after all, we are on the Carnival weekend. On the catwalk, clothes like costumes, with hidden meanings and textures. Artifices built… with art: like the scenography that evokes the runners of Herculaneum; but also the pieces inspired by Unique forms of the continuity of space by Umberto Boccioni and co Spring by Botticelli. Here are so winding skirts with pronounced effect hips basket from Marie Antoniette, long light fitted dresses covered in flowers, tops with wide V-necks that give movement, as well as very long fringes, feathers and scales that stand out against petticoats and extra long coats.

The trenchpiece de resistance, appears as deconstructed and superimposed on itself. The covetable accessories of the season: the It Bag of the house, Sardines, this time with a Murano glass handle, but also leather shopping bags that mimic paper bags; and bed socks which are actually boots flat of tassel. At the end of the Bottega Veneta 2023 fashion show, the release that brings everything back to the level of elegant everyday life: tank top and denim effect leather pants, the women’s flagship uniform of the Blazy era. To demonstrate that there is nothing more surprising than reality.

Dolce&Gabbana, nineties sensuality

Sensual. A programmatic title, that of the fashion show by Dolce&Gabbana for Autumn-Winter 2023/2024. After dusting off the archives with Kim Kardashian, the duo go their own way — and the star sits in the front row to applause. The change of course operated with #CiaoKim Spring-Summer 2023 continues in the next season, thanks to a line that rediscovers everything that celebrates and enhances the most intimate femininity. Sheer dresses are worn over exposed lace lingerie; sheath dresses draped in tulle and voile embrace different, filiform figures Deva Casseldaughter of Monica Bellucci, in the plus size top Ashley Graham.

Jackets and coats are screwed into an hourglass shape and stretch down to the feet, worn with sheer stockings and strappy sandals. A woman who naturally fascinates for her character, rather than for her beauty: and the concept is underlined by the male outings in shirt and tie, but also by the fur collars that frame her face with an aura of mystery . The magic is above all, once again, enclosed in the restyling of archival pieces, distinguished on the runway by the plate with the year of birth: the midi skirt with slit and sheer shirt from 1995, or the tuxedo micro top from 2002 to be worn as a refined under jacket from yesteryear. And the latest release, a sensual – indeed – mermaid dress covered in red crystals, directly from 1992.

The etherealness and rigor of Ferragamo

Maximilian Davis’ second field test for Ferragamo unfolds along the same lines as his debut, crystallizing his own and increasingly recognizable style for the young 25-year-old designer. A fashion show that still looks to the 50s of old Hollywood so dear to Salvatore and to the wardrobe of his stars, sweetened according to an essential, minimal and contemporary modernity. The collection is dedicated to graphic purity he was born in rigor of the lines: the double-sided tailoring reveals its cinematic inspiration through reduced silhouettes and fitted waists, the cocoon cut taken from the 1950s couture is applied to the shirts and the technical bomber jacket. Studied rips in the fabrics they reveal glimpses of iconic Ferragamo reda technique already used by the designer that appears as a signature.

From the first outings as a fencer to biker pieces, from dresses with wing sleeves and Renaissance drapes to the lamé of evening micro dresses: a wardrobe built according to the cornerstones of ethereality and rigor. To which are added accessories, less powerful than clothing but rather coherent, such as angular stiletto heels, maxi bags that look to a model from the 1998 Spring-Summer collection and transparent resin jewellery.

The romantic flourishes of Missoni

Second test also for the creative director Filippo Grazioli from Missoni, who for the Fall-Winter 2023/2024 fashion show starts again from the archive cornerstones. To hit him, a print of rose, the starting point of a 1984 show. The symbolic stylized flower stands out today on transparent turtlenecks and catsuits, blossoms on chamber long coats, is carved into slit skirts. AND makes the Maison’s classics blossom again: knitwear with zigzag pattern elaborated on warm and earthy tones, three-dimensional faux fur furs with a multicolor animalier effect, bodycon sheath dresses and flowing shirts.

On the seats, the writing «Do you remember the first kiss?» brings everything back to the level of love for the material, and recalls the story between Rosita and Ottavio from which the fashion house originates. Long earrings, shielding sunglasses, very high heels complete the fictional story, together with the luminescent flashes on the fa of the evening.

Ermanno Scervino, tribute to Ava Gardner

Ava Gardner is the muse of Herman Scervino for the Fall-Winter 2023/2024 collection. A charming and charismatic personality, capable of embracing her masculine side without betraying her femininity. Corsets, lace bodysuits, brassieres, men’s satin shirts from the wardrobe of the legendary actress alternate on the catwalk, and gracefully and sensually enhance the silhouette. The color palette associates intimate neutrals with passion red and lead gray, while outerwear gives warmth, from over parkas lined in wool to sheepskin. To accentuate the sensual cue in a modern key, very high boots, which are worn with petticoat dresses and shorts. Sequins and crystals light up the evening and the day, thanks to leaden or acid shades. For a Hollywood touch, like a true diva.

Ferrari, the beauty of speed

From MSGM to Bally

Digital landscapes, vibrant and surreal graphics make up the dreamy journey of MSGM extension, The Ultimate Illusion by the designer Massimo Giorgetti. Avoid the moment too Rhuigi Villasenoron its second try from ballywith glamorous and irreverent outings between past and present.

Tex-Mex inspirations for Philipp Plein, which plays with logos, fringes and animal prints. Finally, two ready-to-wear cornerstones extra calendar: on the one hand the exploration of Art Decò America by Elisabetta Franchion the other the seriality of prints and motifs, the focus of Andrew Dating from Benettons.

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