NoIt is not Botox and does not promise effects comparable to those of botulinum toxin. Yet, theargireline is one of thenskincare ingredients most talked about and appreciated at the moment, so much so that it has been renamed the “botox cream”. The reason? It helps make money less visible signs and expression wrinklesespecially when they are still just starting out. «His action is real and documented, but it is iIt is important to have realistic expectations on the results”, explains Umberto Borellini, cosmetologist with a degree in Pharmacy and Psychology and member of the SICC (Italian Society of Chemistry and Cosmetological Sciences). «More than on deep and consolidated wrinkles, argireline acts on more recently formed signs, helping the skin to appear more relaxed and uniform».
Argireline, what it is and how the “botox like” active ingredient works
The name that appears in Inci (the list of ingredients contained in a cosmetic and reported on bottles and jars) is Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, while “argireline” is its commercial name. It is a peptide produced in the laboratory, derived from a protein of the SNAP-25 complex, involved in the release of neurotransmitters.
«Argireline is included in anti-aging cosmetics because it acts on the neurotransmitter acetylcholine, making it less efficient. As a consequence, it slightly reduces muscle contraction, temporarily attenuating the appearance of some expression lines”, explains Umberto Borellini.
«While botulinum toxin injections act directly on the endings, significantly blocking the release of acetylcholine, argireline in cosmetics does not require injections and is applied directly to the skin, reaching the target tissues in a limited way».
Argireline in creams and serums, before and after
How does argireline behave once applied to the skin?
The improvements are not visible immediately. «Creams and serums containing argireline they work significantly with constant use. After 2-4 weeks it is possible to see the first slight changes, while within 2-3 months the results are more evident”.
«Studies indicate that the skin is visually smoother after a few weeks of use, the appearance of dynamic wrinkles improves and even the wrinkles around the eyes, the so-called “crow’s feet”, benefit from it».
It’s not real botox!
Creams and serums containing argireline give desired results if they are formulated correctly. «Naturally, the seriousness of the manufacturing company makes the difference, because significant results are obtained when the active ingredient is among the first names of the ingredients indicated in the INCI», warns Umberto Borellini.
It is particularly effective on dynamic horizontal wrinkles of the forehead and around the eyes. «It is important not to expect important results on deep and static wrinkles not assiduously involved in facial expressions. Furthermore, it has no effect on skin laxity and volume loss.”
Correct use and contraindications
An important aspect to remember is that the result is temporary «When you stop using the cosmetic specialty containing argireline, the results dissolve, and the skin returns to its initial condition».
In general, argireline is well tolerated. «It presents a low risk of irritation. It is often associated with hyaluronic acid, other peptides, such as draining Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, and hydrating hyaluronic acid”, concludes cosmetologist Umberto Borellini.