The Fashion Weeks in the major fashion capitals are a few weeks ago and have given the industry time to process a surprisingly quiet season. In conversation with FashionUnited, Tiffany Hsu, Chief Buying Officer at Mytheresa, reflects on the Fall/Winter 2026 season and explains which trends, collections and catwalk moments are particularly relevant for Mytheresa.
She also provides insights into how these developments shape buying strategy and the balance between brand loyalty, designer influence and data-driven decisions.
The Fall/Winter 26 season follows years of numerous firsts and changes, but leaves a calm impression. How do you assess this phase in the fashion discourse?
It was a very interesting season, every city had its own flair. London felt more evolutionary, a collective move towards craft, clarity and long-term relevance, while in Milan there was a sense of a new chapter – with an atmosphere of recalibration rather than disruptive change.
In New York there was a clear shift towards seriousness and sophistication, accompanied by an almost meditative, creative imagery. Paris, on the other hand, appeared very energetic and romantic and conveyed a renewed sense of femininity.
Which collections or catwalk moments of the season do you particularly remember and seem particularly significant to you?
Prada’s presentation concept was a highlight! The simplicity of the concept gave it enormous power and once again made Prada one of the most talked about brands of the season.
My favorite collection was Bottega Veneta under Louise Trotter, which impressed with an architectural approach, fusing femininity with brutalism to create a covetable collection. One of my other favorites remains Saint Laurent, which presented a vision of modern elegance and combined restraint with the brand identity. And of course you can’t forget the Chanel bags and Maria Grazia Chiuri’s reinterpretation of the Fendi baguette!
Which trends of the season are really wearable and relevant for Mytheresa, which remain primarily catwalk statements?
The Gothic romanticism seen in many collections is here to stay, as are precise tailoring and statement outerwear. The sharper silhouettes give the wardrobe a sophisticated lightness, making it appear relaxed and elegant at the same time. I’ve seen a lot of statement outerwear with added texture or in strong silhouettes.
One trend that I don’t think will last long is utility. The trend seems a bit tired as silhouettes refine and proportions evolve. Therefore, it seems less relevant and will not have long-term significance.
How do you perceive the shift from bold, spectacular statements to functional and subtle fashion, especially in the luxury segment?
There is definitely a movement towards a more understated look, with a focus on well-tailored garments and texture. Calvin Klein Collection returned to the runway last year with its clean, polished aesthetic, and Khaite is known for her sophisticated silhouettes. Her collections continue to strike the perfect balance between clean tailoring and depth through texture.
People are now turning to accessories to bring personality and individual accents to an otherwise pared-down look.
How would you describe the current mood and expectations of your customers?
There is a desire for pieces that allow our customers to bring personality into their outfits – be it through accessories, textures, proportions or unexpected details. The demand for individuality and standout pieces has increased and become more distinct, while the overall look has become simpler and more sophisticated.
While the runways are already geared for fall/winter, summer is just around the corner. Which styles are particularly in demand at the moment?
The main trend this season is playing with proportions: we see lots of structured shoulders and accentuated hip details that emphasize the hourglass silhouette. Dropped waists on summer dresses are also becoming increasingly popular. Micro-minis are on the rise in trousers and skirts, be it skirts or shorts.
Many houses have recently experienced creative leadership changes. Do Mytheresa customers remain loyal to a brand or the individual creative director?
Both. Some customers are fans of certain designers and follow them from door to door, while others remain loyal to the brand regardless of who is in charge of the creative direction.
Which designers or brands are currently the focus of your buying decisions?
Khaite’s narrative really appeals to our customers. It combines simplicity and sensuality and is a true masterpiece of controlled self-assurance. Additionally, Christen by Nina Christen is an outstanding brand. Their shoes combine meticulous craftsmanship with modern, flattering silhouettes that are instantly desirable. She intuitively understands what contemporary women want to wear.
What is the focus of accessories?
When it comes to accessories, we are increasing our purchase of shoes as we have seen a lot of upscale evening and occasion shoes this season. Together, these categories enable us to build a compelling, fashion-conscious range for our customers.
How do you rate young talent for Mytheresa compared to established houses? Does risk-taking play a role, or is stability currently the focus?
Although we are always scouting emerging talent, few brands are currently able to operate at the scale of our platform. We therefore consciously introduce new names. We are still navigating the aftermath of last season’s creative leadership changes, so this is always a topic of careful consideration.
Have budget allocations or purchasing strategies changed recently, and if so, where is increased investment and where adjustments made?
We are investing significantly more in ready-to-wear as it is one of our key growth axes, particularly in elevated, statement-making pieces that anchor an outfit, such as cocktail and eveningwear as well as statement outerwear.
Our customers build their wardrobe specifically and buy a lot of ready-to-wear pieces, so we concentrate on this when shopping and don’t plan to deviate from it.
What role does data, digital engagement metrics, social media responses and AI insights play in assessing trends and customer interest, and how much do you rely on your personal intuition?
Knowing upcoming trends is an important factor in our decisions, but we also use past data to navigate choices. We need to pay close attention to what is happening in the market and what is being worn on the street, which of course social media can be helpful for.
Our amazing personal shopping team also supports us by sharing customer feedback, which is always very valuable.
You are also responsible for exclusive collaborations and capsule collections for certain brands at Mytheresa. How do these fit into the company’s overall strategy?
When working on exclusive capsule collections, we always keep our customers in mind. We know our customers very well and know what they like and want to buy, so we like to set certain parameters for the collection while staying true to the brand’s DNA. Overall, we are heavily involved, but not involved in the design process.
This interview was conducted in writing.
