Milan Fashion Week for the Fall/Winter 2026 season has come to an end. Simon Longland, director of buying for fashion at British luxury department store Harrods, described the shows as a “confident and coherent” presentation. This was characterized by strong collections from Bottega Veneta and Prada. In addition, Maria Grazia Chiuri’s debut at Fendi opened a “significant new chapter”.
“The season demonstrated a clear focus on product and practicality,” said Longland. “This ranged from the debut at Fendi, to the continued evolution of Bottega Veneta, to the consistently strong collections of Prada; Dolce & Gabbana; Brunello Cucinelli; Loro Piana and Etro.”
“There is a noticeable move away from excess towards substance. The collections are based on craftsmanship, wearability and long-term value. This is exactly how our customers want to invest today.”
In an interview, Longland reveals his favorite moments and trends from Milan Fashion Week –
What were your favorite collections at MFW this season?
This season in Milan was characterized by clarity and conviction. At Bottega Veneta the focus was on materiality and movement. The collection had a special feel. This was paired with flowing silhouettes that looked both effortless and sophisticated. What particularly stood out was the subtle expression of identity. An understated elegance rooted in craftsmanship and culture.
Prada presented one of the most intellectually compelling collections of the week. The exploration of layering, almost like a dressing system, was executed with precision. The looks evolved gradually. They highlighted the idea of adaptability and longevity in a modern wardrobe.
What do you think of Maria Grazia Chiuri’s debut at Fendi?
It’s fascinating to see how Fendi’s men’s and women’s collections come together under a single, unwavering vision. The fashion house has settled on a disciplined color palette of black and ivory. This was only interrupted by a single red dress and utilitarian khaki accents. In doing so, the house has successfully focused on the masterful feel of textures, decorations and fabrics.
Which of her pieces do you see for Harrods?
For Harrods, the standout options lie in lace, leather and the intricate embroidery on dresses and separates. These pieces perfectly embody the combination of traditional craftsmanship and modern sophistication that our customers expect.
Which presentation concept particularly impressed you?
Loro Piana presented one of the most sophisticated and thoughtful concepts of the week. Inspired by poetry and travel, the presentation created a tranquil, immersive environment. This enabled visitors to deal intensively with the product. This feeling of closeness, of being able to really see and feel the craftsmanship, was impressive. It reflected a quiet confidence in which the focus is on the product itself.
What important trends have emerged in Milan?
A clear shift towards smart, durable clothing characterized the season. Layering was key, but approached in a nuanced way. It was less about heavy winter clothing and more about modularity. This means that items of clothing can be worn across seasons.
The color palette was inspired by natural landscapes. Sand, stone and earth tones conveyed a feeling of calm and stability. Red emerged as a precise accent color, used sparingly but effectively.
We also saw a modern approach to lace and a continued focus on tailoring. This was structured, but increasingly fluid in execution.
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