The word “historic” was so present this season that it almost hovered over the SS26 collections like an unofficial headline. And rightly so, as there was a massive shift in chairs at the highest echelons of the fashion world. 14 designers presented their first collections as newly appointed creative directors of some of the most influential houses in the industry. This tectonic shift in the creative fabric inevitably brought about the feeling of a new beginning.
The promise of a fashionable departure could be felt everywhere. But after four weeks a familiar picture emerged. The trends that gradually emerged from the show were in familiar territory despite all the stylistic realignments.
The ten most important trends for SS26 at a glance.
Light as a feather
If there’s one feather-trimmed dress that’s likely to remain permanently in the collective fashion memory after this Fashion Week, it’s the one from Mathieu Blazy’s debut collection for Chanel. But the designer was neither the first nor the last to use the material.
The season as a whole was characterized by an abundance of texture and movement, and feathers played an important role. Whether as part of vests and headdresses, as with Ann Demeulemeester, or as an embellishment on skirts, as Pierpaolo Piccioli chose for Balenciaga, the springy material proved to be extremely versatile.
Ruffle game
After years of clean lines, fashion is rediscovering its softer side this season. Ruffles appeared everywhere – not as a nostalgic gesture, but as a conscious break with the austerity of previous years. In Marques’ Almeida they appeared irregular and spontaneous, in Alberta Ferretti they appeared more delicate and in gentle, flowing layers that played with light and movement. Chloé ultimately translated the ruffle into a modern volume that balanced between sportiness and romance.
Sea of flowers
Floral patterns for spring have never been and never will be groundbreaking – and yet not a season goes by without the floral motif once again dotting the runways. Rabanne kicked off the floral parade with a look that was reminiscent of an ’80s revival and almost looked like something out of a colorful music video. Valentino, on the other hand, took us back to the 70s with a flowing metallic dress in shimmering green tones, whose floral pattern appeared like a painting dipped in lamé.
In comparison, Loewe almost relied on restraint. The tightly cut mini dress with small, finely arranged flowers looked as if the flowers had been painted with a delicate brush stroke.
Shades of yellow
After several seasons dominated by neutral tones and earthy nuances, color returned with vigor to the runways. Yellow in particular proved to be the tone of the hour – present in a wide variety of nuances.
At Miu Miu it appeared as a lively complement to sporty shapes and graphic patterns, giving the color an almost utilitarian severity. Alexander McQueen relied on the dramatic effect of yellow in voluminous, floor-length dresses that dissolved the fabric in movement and light. Balenciaga, in turn, translated the tone into sculptural forms and structured surfaces, meaning that yellow here embodied less lightness and more almost architectural precision.
Fringe festival
At first glance, the fringe trend doesn’t look much different from the previously mentioned feather look – but texture played a central role in the overall look of the Spring/Summer 2026 season, and fringe, in all its variations, was everywhere.
At Chanel, the technique manifested itself in a tactile opulence with a gold fringe combination, while Alexander McQueen gave the theme a rougher edge. Shiny metallic threads hung loosely from a cropped top that was paired with jeans. Loewe presented probably the most architectural version with electric cobalt blue fringes emerging from a sculptural skirt, combined with a voluminous jacket that anchored the whole thing in modern practicality.
A touch of Marie Antoinette
Last spring, numerous brands began to reinterpret the breaded robes of the 18th century – with exaggerated hip volumes that were reminiscent of courtly silhouettes. This season the image was less uniform, but opulent volume, which would once have thrilled Marie Antoinette, was particularly widespread in dresses.
There, the volume gave skirts and dresses a lively dynamic. They came down the catwalk fluffed up, folded and with a lively movement. For example, with Jonathan Anderson’s debut for Dior’s women’s collection or at Givenchy under the creative direction of Sarah Burton. Louis Vuitton, on the other hand, presented a transparent combination of trousers that were cut so wide that they could almost pass as a skirt, plus a bodice and a cape with such voluminous shoulders that they were in no way inferior to the skirts in terms of drama. Fittingly, the show took place at the Musée du Louvre, specifically in the premises that once served as the summer residence of Anne of Austria, Queen of France.
A field of lilacs
Yellow and purple are opposite each other on the color wheel and will compete in the spring/summer 2026 season. The shade of violet appeared in a variety of shades – from cool lilac to rich purple. Chloé chose a soft lilac shade for a dress that fell in soft pleats that gathered around the hips and hem. Balenciaga showed a slimmer silhouette in bold purple, enlivened by draping at the hem. Moschino, in turn, combined the color with playful details, such as oversized flounces and an emphasized hip volume that was reminiscent of couture performances.
Silhouette game
Designers play with silhouettes, and the jacket in particular had to leave a few centimeters. On the catwalks it appeared in a cropped version that revealed the lower body and at the same time modernized the classic shape. Whether in the minimal design at Chanel, the clear geometry at Max Mara or the avant-garde creation at Alexander McQueen, the cropped version brings a breath of fresh air to the classic suit look.
Dark lingerie look
Similar to the influence of the 18th century, lingerie-inspired fashion is now a common sight on the catwalk. This season, however, it is much darker and even more sensual.
With Tom Ford, slipdress became a deconstructed work of art. Transparent lace inserts met graphic lines and strong contrasts. Patou, for her part, showed a playful take on the lingerie theme, with the delicate bralette and floral miniskirt-tights combination almost reminiscent of a classic pin-up silhouette, and Jean Paul Gaultier took the theme to the extreme. A low-cut bodysuit with a translucent skirt sat so low that it almost resembled stockings.
Orange
Not only yellow and purple, but also orange sends bright signals for SS26. The color, which has long oscillated between warning signal and retro charm, was hard to miss this season.
At Ottolinger, intense orange meets psychedelic paisley patterns and a fluid, asymmetrical silhouette, and Saint Laurent takes an opulent approach with a voluminous ruffled dress reminiscent of the ’80s. Finally, Jean Paul Gaultier shows a futuristic catsuit with a sculptural bustier – a look between sci-fi and haute couture, in an orange tone that looks like liquid metal.
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