One in three fashion brands without an action plan against mulesing

Two thirds of international fashion brands show insufficient transparency when dealing with so-called ‘mulesing’. This is a painful procedure in which folds of skin from the rear of lambs are removed. This is according to a new report from animal rights organization Four Paws, which examined more than a hundred brands in eleven countries.

Although the majority (84 percent) of the brands surveyed speak out against the cruel mutilation of lambs, a third lack a clear approach to actually stop it. An example of this would be a mulesing-free certificate such as the Responsible Wool Standard (RWS).

Different levels of engagement between brands

The US label Michael Kors comes in last place with zero points. The reasons for this are a lack of transparency and the refusal to take part in the investigation. The most transparent brands include the US outdoor brand Patagonia, the German label Ortovox, the Canadian outdoor brand Arc’teryx and the Swedish label Cos. In addition, according to the report, the German retailer Tchibo is also considered transparent.

According to Four Paws, a quarter of brands showed tangible improvements after engaging with the organization. Brands such as H&M, Jack Wolfskin and Marc O’Polo now only use certified, mulesing-free wool. Other brands, including Barbour, Coop and Düsseldorf fashion retailer Peek & Cloppenburg, said they wanted to implement this by 2030.

Of the brands that only use certified, mulesing-free wool (19 percent), only half label this on their products. This is a sign that transparency is not a high priority for the brands surveyed. Nine of these brands, including Tom Tailor and Brax, have now added information about mulesing to their labels.

Australian wool under the microscope

Mulesing is still particularly widespread in Australia, the country that is considered the largest wool producer in the world. The intervention was designed to prevent the deadly infection ‘Flystrike’ in Merino sheep. However, it has been criticized for years because of the severe animal suffering associated with it. Four Paws is now calling on fashion brands, and in particular the Australian wool industry, to switch to certified, mulesing-free wool. They should also be more transparent with consumers about animal welfare when producing wool fashion.

The report adds a third dimension to discussions held at international wool conferences in France and China this month. The focus there was on environmental friendliness, the interests of shepherds and production organizations and working conditions. Wool is no exception. Animal welfare often falls by the wayside in the sustainability debate in the fashion industry.