Three weeks. The thirty -year -old Anaïs Claes did not take more maternity leave after the birth of her son Oliver. Through certain circumstances, it was faster than expected Head of Sustainability at the Belgian family business Claes Retail Group (CRG), known by the JBC, Mayerline and CCS brands. “I already knew that I was pregnant, but nobody else might know. Shortly afterwards I got a younger colleague who came directly from the university. When she found out about my pregnancy, I immediately calmed her down: I wouldn’t stay away for long.”
Claes, which together with her cousin Lucas and her cousin Amber forms the youngest generation of the Claes entrepreneurial family, seems to be created for the group, and yet it was not predetermined that Claes would actually go into the family business. A topic such as sustainability is particularly relevant for your generation. It was certainly not planned that it is now part of the company and is also devoted to sustainability. “In my studies, the topic was shown far too idealistic. Only through the practical work I realize how much it is for me.”
Lifelong learning on the subject of sustainability
Claes studied applied economics in Hasselt and International Fashion Business in Florence. It was clear that she wanted to go to the fashion industry. But where exactly? That was still in the stars. In an ideal scenario, Claes initially wanted to gain experience in the London fashion scene before returning to her home Limburg. “But I graduated during the Corona crisis. Jobs in the fashion industry were hardly to be found.”
CLAES had only one subject on sustainability in the course of applied economics and in the International Fashion Business. The first was too general, the second almost philanthropic. “As if the topic was hung in the air and nothing concrete. Nothing for me, I thought: I am too pragmatic for that. It is amazing that I have started with it now and that it really likes to do it now. It is not idealistic, but very practical and applicable at all.”
According to Claes, it is the challenge of translating an idealistic message into practice. “You can measure it, you can improve a lot. This gives me energy. Sustainability is a wide range of subjects, I also like that, which means that you have a lot of variety. Within the columns of the environment and social issues, there are so many different aspects. I think I could learn forever. Knowledge structure does not end, precisely because the topic develops so strongly.”
In 2008, JBC had a collection with organic cotton for the first time, says Claes. That was “exceptionally groundbreaking” at the time. “Certifications did not matter, we simply assumed that it was true. Of course, I don’t say that it was not a organic cotton, but the world has changed a lot since then. Today you have to know the entire supply chain. Everything has become technical. The bar is much higher, and this is also correct. also much more often. “
On the occasion of JBC’s fifties, Claes examined the history of the topic of sustainability within the chain. “It is of course not a reproach, but how did journalists write about it earlier? Eco-clothing? You would no longer see this choice of words. It borders on Greenwashing. For our anniversary, I have rewritten a lot from our history in the context of today. How do you talk as objectively as possible about this topic?”
Livelihood wages remain a sensitive topic
An assertion that JBC would not set up so quickly, for example, is that the workers: inside their factories receive a livelihood. “Even for production in Europe, in Lithuania, we would not say that, although European norms would have to guarantee this in principle. Listing wages are a difficult topic anyway.”
It is not easy to be 100 % sure how the bonus paid is distributed. Does he actually go to the employees: inside? There is still a long way to move back here.
Lawy wages, notes Claes, are “a difficult issue anyway”. Claes exchanges about it with like -minded people like Tara Scally. Scally used to work on the Multi-Stakeholder initiative Fair Wear, which is connected by JBC, and is now Head of Sustainability at the well-known Dutch chain Zeeman. “Zeeman pays a livelihood wage for the proportion that you have in some of your factories. Could JBC also? Our share with our supplier: inside is significantly lower. Does it make a difference, emotionally?”
The hope is that other brands support the strategy at the same production location. “I don’t say that it can’t happen. But I fear that we would try it and then it would remain. Who am I to convince the biggest clothing brands in the world? Then I would feel a certain disappointment. I think it’s a very complex topic.”
Sustainability managers: Less than expected to share inside
Unfortunately, there are only a few people and brands that are willing to exchange information about it. There are also not many good examples that can be used. “If there are best practices, it is nice if a person is ready behind this brand to report. I find that this is not so a matter of course. Not even within Fair Wear. Not every brand is equally enthusiastic about helping and informing them.”
Claes likes to visit industry events where she comes into contact with other sustainability managers: inside. The week she returned from maternity leave, such an event in Amsterdam was on the plan. “I always try to see if there are brands that are willing to have a conversation. Of course we do not exchange company -sensitive information, but I am happy to ask what others have to fight and how to deal with it.”
Claes believes that almost all of them are confronted with the same challenges and questions, but some are simply a little further than others when answering certain questions. “By talking to each other about it, we try to get each other ahead.”
Only that doesn’t happen that often. “There is an illusion that sustainability managers: INTERICATION INFORMATION. In reality, the information usually remains superficial. Companies that are ready to share files are very limited. I am glad that I have found a couple and just as happy if I can help you. This mutual exchange helps to think about challenges and possible solutions.”
Most of the time, the files are not one -to -one to one to the context of CRG, but that is also not necessary. “It can stimulate ideas. Sometimes I share my methodology. Or I tell which resources I have found. But of course I don’t know whether this is the only or best sources.”
Measure CO2 effects or plant trees?
Tools are another topic in which an exchange is welcome, notes Claes. “There are many companies on the market that measure CO2. But do they work with primary or secondary data? Are you tailored to our industry or not? It is quite a challenge to find out whether someone is the right partner. Precisely because sustainability is now a big business, it is not easy to find a tool that is manageable.”
Measurements are quite expensive in the budget of a company like CRG. “Sometimes I think I would rather plant trees for the money. Then at least I know that I really do something while a tool only measures. Measure is known, of course, but we also have to name the costs associated with it.”
In CRG, Claes hopes to inspire her college: inside for the topic that is so important to her. The company founded the ‘Sustainabuddies’ internally. “Every team and every department is represented. A total of 24 college: inside across all brands that meet every two months on the subject of sustainability. It was not a duty, but a warm invitation. Everyone in the team could register. So it is not just executives.”
In the beginning, they learned the basics above all. “You not only have to take the people from the purchase, but also those from finance and legal. That means immersed in deeply: Who are we as an industry and what effects we have? Why do we have to work in the area of sustainability and with which strategy? How can they contribute to this? It can also be fun. This is how we have made the ’30-day-day-day challenge ‘. Men were remarkably better than women,” laughs.
This is how a college become an ambassador: inside. “As a Head of Sustainability, I cannot sit in every meeting or make every decision. We hope that everyone in the company can take responsibility for sustainability. I don’t do that alone.”
This article was used with digital tools translated.
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