Around a year after the National Assembly, the French counterpart to the Federal Council is about the adoption of the so -called “Ultra Fast Fashion”. The aim of the initiative is to regulate the rapidly growing market for extremely short-lived cheap fashion-as is offered by the Chinese online giant Shein.
The design of the MP Anne-Cécile Volland (Horizons) is to be set to vote in the second chamber on Tuesday from 2:30 p.m. A broad approval is expected – a clear sign of the cross -party support and backing by the government.
In view of the “invasion” of the so-called “Ultra Fast Fashion”, also referred to as “Ultra Express Mode”, Environment Minister Agnès Pannier-Runacher praised the draft as “as you could expect”. She also announced that the law of the European Commission is submitted for examination to ensure legal protection at European level.
Package of measures against Fast Fashion
The legislative initiative provides a whole bundle of measures to stop the growing spread of this fashion: penalty payments for particularly environmentally harmful companies, advertising bans, obligations for online platforms and sanctions for influencers: inside that apply for corresponding products.
“Anti-Shein law”?
Shein is particularly the focus of criticism. The Chinese platform offers extremely inexpensive textiles that are renewed at the shortest distances. Allegations concern not only the high environmental impact, but also precarious working conditions in production. With an average of 7,220 new articles per day (according to an AFP analysis from May 22nd to June 5th), Shein far exceeds the established brands-H&M for comparison brings around 290 new articles in the women’s area and 50 in the men’s area every day.
The aim of the legislative initiative is therefore expressly to regulate platforms such as Shein – but not traditional brands with inpatient presence in France such as H&M, Zara or Kiabi. However, this demarcation was occasionally criticized, especially by left -wing MPs.
“I don’t want to ask for a single euro of companies that contribute to the economic revival of our regions with branches in France,” emphasized the rapporteur of the Senate, Sylvie Valente Le Hir (Les Républicains).
Shein himself reacted with sharp criticism: “In the end, we face a law that is specifically against Shein and our customers: If it is adopted, it would hit their wallets and restrict their purchasing power considerably,” said Quentin Ruffat, spokesman for Shein in France.
Obligations and taxes for Ultra Fast Fashion
It is considered certain that Shein will be affected by all articles of the law. The platform fulfills all criteria of the legal definition of the “Ultra Express Mode”, which was introduced by the Senate. In the future, companies in this category will have to explain their customers: specifically about the environmental impact of their products.
It is also undisputed that Shein falls under the extended “eco-taxes” that contain a bonus-malus system. From 2030, penalty payments of at least ten euros per article can be expected. A central element of the law is also the complete ban on advertising for Ultra Fast Fashion. Influencers too: inside that advertise such products should be sanctioned in a targeted manner. However, there are constitutional concerns about the feasibility of this regulation.
Submission to small shipments
Another measure that has so far been less expected affects a new tax on small shipments from non-EU countries-two to four euros per package. This is intended to expand the scope beyond Shein, for example to the Chinese online dealer Temu.
However, it is open whether this regulation will be preserved in the final legislative acquisition. This topic may be converted into the area of responsibility of the EU – corresponding negotiations are currently underway at the European level.
After the vote in the Senate, a joint committee of members of both chambers is expected to be called in autumn. The aim is to agree on a final version of the law to regulate the fast fashion.