There is good and bad news from the fashion world. The good news, Dr Dutch designer Duran Lantink was appointed creative director of the French fashion house Jean Paul Gaultier. The less good news, with the appointment of Lantink, the special chapter of the guest designers comes to an end: inside at JPG.
After Jean Paul Gaultier withdrawn from the catwalk in 2020, the designer announced that he would open his fashion house for other designers: on the inside. Every couture season should have new designers: inside has the opportunity to reinterpret Gaultier’s work and to design a contemporary skin couture collection for the house. In total there were eight. This experimental chapter closes with Lantink’s arrival as a permanent creative director.
Like eight designers: reinvented Jean Paul Gaultier inside
Fortunately, the pictures from this innovative phase are preserved with Jean Paul Gaultier. From the feminine eye for tailoring of the Sacai founder Chitose ABE to the gender fluid vision of Ludovic de Saint Sernin-below you will find an overview of the guest designers: inside that have rewritten Gaultier’s trademark in their own way.
Chitose ABE-HW21 Couture collection
Chitose ABE, founder of the Sacai brand, was the first guest designer with Jean Paul Gaultier. During the Paris Fashion Week in July 2020, she presented the autumn/winter 2021 Couture collection.
ABE was praised for her technical layering and patchwork strips, feminine corsets and marine details. She effortlessly combined her own style with the Gaultier DNA.
Glenn Martens-FS22 Couture collection
Glenn Martens, currently creative director at Maison Margiela, presented his vision of JPG in January 2022.
Martens drew out of the archives of the French fashion house. He integrated JPG classics such as the pointed bra and the Breton top into contemporary creations.
Olivier Rousteins-HW22 Couture collection
The well-known Balmain designer Olivier Rusteins gave Gaultier Codes a glamorous update. His autumn/winter 2022 collection was a tribute to the FS94 show Les Tatouages With translucent fabrics that were printed with tattoo-like patterns.
Rousteins Show also contained a striking reference to the famous Le male-Apfum bottle, which can be seen by its transparent blue torso form. The designer completed the styling with striking platforms that he himself wears every day.
Haider Ackermann-FS23 Couture collection
Then Haider Ackermann brought his simple sensuality and minimalism to Gaultier in January 2023. His spring/summer 2023 collection was unanimously praised by the press present for her flowing drapes and sharp cuts. The show ended with standing ovation. The FS23 show from JPG, through Ackermann’s eyes, marked a moment of simple elegance within Gaultier’s normally exuberant style codes.
Julien Dossa-HW23 Couture collection
Julien Dossa, chief designer at Paco Rabanne, presented a collection in autumn 2023 in which he concentrated on the iconic Gaultier corset. In a delicate peach pink it was contrasting to a silver -gray, sequin -placed skirt. The cone-shaped cups and the visible rods gave a classic that is still a strong fashion statement, a modern touch.
Simone Rocha-FS24 Couture collection
The British designer Simone Rocha debut in January 2024 at JPG with a romantic collection with large silhouettes, transparent layers, lace and pearls.
Her spring/summer 2024 show showed clear volume and a feminine aesthetics that fit her own style, which she seamlessly integrated into the world of Gaultier.
Nicolas di Felice-HW24 Couture collection
Nicolas di Felice, creative director of Courrèges, chose a minimalist approach in June 2024.
The designer reduced the rich, visual language of the French house to a minimum. The collection focused on clear lines and only a few colors.
Ludovic de Saint Sernin-FS25 Couture collection
Ludovic de Saint Sernin concluded the era of guest designers: inside with a top -class spring/summer 2025 show. He presented a gender fluid collection with elegant corsets, transparent fabrics and sensual loops.
‘Le Naufrage’ radiated desire and drama and questioned conventions about masculinity and femininity. Several looks underlined this vision: a deep cleavage with a corset, a dishes with pheasant feathers and a pants suit with panties and Musselin.
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