The sustainability assessment company Good on You has published its fashion planet benchmark report. This analyzed data of more than 5,400 large (1,372) and small brands (4,032; based on annual sales) in terms of emission tracking, supply chain transparency and circulatory economic initiatives. The report reveals alarming gaps between the environmental obligations of the fashion industry and their measures, especially in the three key areas, overall effects on the planet, responsibility along the supply chain and circulatory economic initiatives. It also shows where brands could play a pioneering role.
One of the most important results of the report is that large fashion brands in environmental measures only achieve an average of 30 percent, while small brands perform better at 46 percent. Another realization is that the majority (88 percent) of the brands with emission goals do not open any progress in achieving them.
Despite extensive discussions about circular economy, only 6 percent of large brands invest in research and development for circulatory innovations, only 3 percent offer rental models and only 13 percent have resale programs.
“The numbers speak for themselves. Unfortunately, the industry lags far behind what it would have to do to protect the environment and our future,” comments Sandra Capponi, co -founder of Good on You, in a press release. “Without more determined measures and systemic changes, the industry risks the trust of consumers: interior, investor: to lose interior and regulatory authorities – and at the same time endanger the resilience of their own supply chains. The fashion industry simply cannot continue.”
Material selection of large vs. smaller brands
As far as the materials are concerned, large and smaller brands have different preferences and strategies: “If you have the impression that the sustainability measures of most major brands are used in the use of recycled polyester, you are correct-it is the most frequently used, more environmentally friendly material,” said the Good on You Report.
With 65 percent, recycled polyester is the most frequently used environmentally friendly material of large brands, followed by organic cotton (52 percent), linen/flax (38 percent), BCI cotton (22 percent), recycled nylon (21 percent), Tencel-Lyocell (18 percent), other recycled/upcycled materials (17 percent), Recycelter cotton (13 percent), Tencel modal (12 percent), Ecovero (11 percent), recycle wool (4 percent), hemp/jute (3 percent) and CMIA cotton.
The picture looks different for smaller brands: organic cotton is the most popular environmentally friendly material (59 percent), followed by recycled polyester (46 percent). Other recycled/upcycled materials can be found in third place and are used twice as often with 34 percent by smaller brands than by large ones. In fourth place is linen/flax (29 percent), followed by Tencel-Lyocell (18 percent), recycled cotton (15 percent), recycled nylon (14 percent), Ecovero and Tencel modal (12 percent each), BCI cotton (6 percent), hemp/jute (5 percent), recycle (4 percent), Organic lines (2 percent) and organic hemp, CMIA cotton, PLA, Monocel and Ramie each with about 1 percent.
Paths into the future
The benchmark report not only shows problems, but also makes clear suggestions for improvement. He illustrates where important players can show real leadership on the inside, for example by taking on more responsibility and working with their manufacturing companies and suppliers: working inside and supporting them to increase the transparency in the supply chain.
“A more holistic approach begins with the integration of isolated sustainability teams and independent environmental goals into the more comprehensive business strategy. Managers should receive incentives to prioritize investments in solutions that have proven themselves in the largest emissions hotspots and offer social and ecological advantages,” advises Ruth MacGilp, Fashion Campaign Manager at Action Speaks Louder.
The full fashion planet benchmark report is available on the Good On You Journal on the Good on You website.