Almost 100 fashion brands – from emerging designers: inside to large fashion groups – presented their collection during the Shanghai Fashion Week. From minimalist, casual to avant -garde, the diversity of the styles was great – but some ingredients found themselves on a wide variety of catwalks. Six HW25 trends from China.

Fringe frenzy

Fringes have developed from a decorative detail to a statement during the Shanghai Fashion Week. You are a trademark of designer Xuzhi, which celebrates the tenth of his label of the same name this year. In his HW25 collection, which he presented in the Xintiandi shopping district, he played with her material and length. Reward fringe hems gave clothes and skirts structure, while fluent, draped fringes conveyed a feeling of nostalgia and drama.

The elongated black fringes, which adorned a black blouse and several cloaks as well as some handbags in the designer Mark Gong’s AW25 collection, also created a hint of drama. The floor-length fringes that flowed out under the excerpt of a bardot top emphasized and created the flowing silhouette of a red dress on the AW25 show by Samuel Guì Yang.

Xu Zhi, Mark Gong, Samuel Guì Yang AW25 Credits: Label via Shanghai Fashion Week, Label, Launchmetrics Spotlight

Fur glamor

Coats and jackets from fur awarded the look at Mark Gong or Ruiruirul even more glamor, with the type of fur material varied – hopefully it was art fur. The same was for the long fur stolen that could be seen at NMTG. For its AW25 collection, the label was inspired by the Ewenken, a ethnic group that lives in the inner Mongolia and Siberia and whose traditional clothing also contains fur elements.

Mark Gong, Ruiruirul, NMTG AW25
Mark Gong, Ruiruirul, NMTG AW25 Credits: Via Label, Shanghai Fashion Week

Space colors

The Weiræn label found inspiration for its AW25 collection in a distant world, somewhere between the future and space. Colors from silver metallic to frosty white tones locate the outfits between technological and futuristic fantasies.

Other labels such as the Vietnamese LSOUL or Billiondevon presented cosmic looks that were accentuated by shining purple and gray tones. This is not surprising at Billiondevon, because behind the brand is the imaginary extraterrestrial girl Billion with her cat Devon.

Billion Devon, LSoul, Weiræn AW25
Billion Devon, LSoul, Weiræn AW25 Credits: Label via Shanghai Fashion Week & Labelhood

Split chic

Many collections were more attracted and withdrawn than before. Wax jackets, structured, carved blazer and weatherproof outerwear would not be supported by today’s urban youth out of necessity, but as protection against the adversities of unstable modern life, according to the show notes of private policy. The label did not romance these traditional clothing, but played with the dress codes through subversive details. A lively fabric dress with grenade pockets inspired by military uniforms got a current touch with sewn metal rings.

WMWM, AO YES, Private Policy AW25
WMWM, AO YES, Private Policy AW25 Credits: Labels via Labelhood

The label AO YES also broke through the stomach of a gray coat inspired by military uniforms, with the typical Chinese illustration of a stylized orchid. A cat hidden behind loosened these traditional references. In addition to weatherproof jackets, the WMWM label WMWM from Mushroom Song are also added, which should protect against the adversities of the weather and life. Under the protective outer layer, delicate details such as a pink lace silk blouse can also appear.

Short Sentence, Private Policy, Shushu/Tong AW25
Short Sentence, Private Policy, Shushu/Tong AW25 Credits: Label via Shanghai Fashion Week & Labelhood, label

Mysterious earth

Two brands can hardly be more different. The Shanghaier Label Hemu designed by Far Eastern traditions inspired clothing and Oude Waag is the label of Jingwei Yin, a graduate of London fashion schools who worked for designer Haider Ackermann and Hussein Chalayan. And yet her color palette overlapped the deep, mysterious earth tones – but with very different effects. At Hemu, they made an ancient connection to an imaginary past, and at Oude Waag the tones earthed their eyes. They did not distract him, but on the refined details and bold cuts. In the case of jarelz slope, on the other hand, the insulating intermediate tones, together with the asymmetrical cuts, served to explore the inconsistency of perception, the shadow between reality and idea.

Hemu, Oude Waag, Jarelzhang
Hemu, Oude Waag, Jarelzhang Credits: Labels via Shanghai Fashion Week & Labelhood

3D daunes

The sculptural potential of down clothing sparked different brands during the Shanghai Fashion Week. There were no limits to the silhouettes of the down jackets on the label AWR: a black and red loyalty dress with a huge Dracula collar followed on a floor-length purple down capes with trumpet sleeves and a brown-pink balloon-shaped buffer jacket with a suitable oversize scarf-all with down boots with expressive, protruding edges.

The clothing brand Sanqiang, founded in 1937, presented striking X-shaped down vests for its 88th collection, and jarelz slope also played with slight exploits on the sleeves with the shapes of a buffer jacket.

Sanqiang, AWR, Jarelzhang AW25
Sanqiang, AWR, Jarelzhang AW25 Credits: Label via Shanghai Fashion Week & Labelhood

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