At the end of the 1990s, fears of the millennium bug were widespread. The designers responded with dark color palettes that reflected the mood of technological unease. In many ways, NYFW FW26 revisited this tension.
The color on the catwalks was predominantly black. This was very reminiscent of the stripped-back minimalism seen at Calvin Klein, Jil Sander and Prada between 1997 and 1999. Anticipation is growing for Ryan Murphy’s upcoming series about John F. Kennedy Jr. and Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy. As a result, images of her streamlined Calvin Klein suits, slip dresses and minimalist evening dresses have resurfaced. They revive the spirit of that time.
But this understated, minimalist aesthetic doesn’t seem like pure nostalgia. Rather, it feels strikingly relevant – less a look back than a reflection of the current mood. Here are the top color trends seen on the NYFW FW26 runways.
Brown
Shades of chocolate, caramel, camel and soft browns were used to create a range of soft and luxurious-feeling pieces. These included lambskin jackets, slim-fitting suede trousers and pencil skirts made of soft leather.
Yellow ochre
Colors that customers might consider ‘edgy’ have gained popularity in recent seasons. This includes ocher, a warm, brownish-yellow color. Designers used ocher for sweaters, which they paired with tailored skirts and pants. At Libertine, ocher tulle was attached to a black short coat over a metallic gold ensemble.
Moss green
Designers have been using a more muted and earthy shade of moss green as a neutral color for several seasons. It is versatile enough to work on a variety of fabrics. Frederick Anderson used it on lace to create a foliage effect. Kim Shui showed off a moss green suit with burgundy accessories, a combination that has been seen more frequently on the runway lately.
Pale blue
Shades of blue ranging from indigo to a medium sky blue served as a change from an otherwise darker palette. Jane Wade used a medium layer of color for a checked crinoline dress. Prabal Gurung added chiffon in a similar shade to the bottom of a navy velvet dress.
Pure red
Once again a nod to the 90s: designers showed red from head to toe. Looks ranged from a drop-waist satin dress at Tory Burch to a suit with slim trousers at Carolina Herrera. With the predominantly dark and neutral palettes, the saturated red broke this mood and acted as a disruptive factor.
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