CThis is a somewhat complicated affair, as the French would say. It is the national cartography that sometimes disorientates the traveler. A sort of “game” of Chinese boxes, of borders, also evident in one of the most seductive areas beyond the Alps: the Loire Valley. In summary. There France it is divided into regions (there are 18) which in turn are divided into departments (there are 101)which in turn, again, they contain the Ancient Provinces (the historic territories of the Kingdom of France) swept away by the French Revolution.
The lesser-known Loire
Thus, even the territory famous for its castles is made up of two distinct regions: “Loire Valley”, the area that extends towards the Atlantic Ocean, and “Centre-Val de Loire” closest to Paris. The latter is the perfect synthesis of the affaire compliquée. In fact, it is a region that contains six departments, of which Indre-et-Loire includes La Touraine, a former royal province, in the south-western part. An area which, despite the glories of the past, it is still little traveled by the classic Loire Valley tour, because tourists generally divert to the more well-known northern part. Yet, this area deserves to be explored starting from Loches: seven thousand souls and a compelling story to discover step by step.
Climbing to the upper part, you enter the Citadelle Royale, a dive into the Middle Ages and the events of war and love of the powerful people of the time. The village, surrounded by an intact city wall (about two kilometers long), is the stone expression of Count Folco III of Anjou, known as Nerra (the Black, 970-1040), a controversial character with a spirit torn between wars , power, penitential pilgrimages to Jerusalem, royal courts, construction of fortresses and abbeys. It was he who designed the soaring Torrione in the 11th century, flanked by two other towers erected later.
The Château de Chaumont, on the Loire. Photo by Massimo Ripani.
In the massive defensive complex, going up to the roof you can admire a magnificent panorama of Loches and its surroundings, but if you go down into the basement, in the Tour du Martelet which was a prison until 1926, you are impressed by a cell with frescoed walls. What is surprising are the still vivid colours, the creative flair, the drawings and graffiti with philosophical phrases such as “Luck does not reward the reckless”. But what leaves the visitor stunned is the name of the author: Ludovico Sforza, Duke of Milan, known as il Moro. The “Milan governor” during the Italian wars was taken prisoner by the French armies and locked up by order of Louis XII in the fortified tower for four years (from 1504 to 1508) and died there.
The towers of the collegiate church in the Royal Citadel of Loches. Photo by Massimo Ripani.
Following the events of the past, in the silent Citadel stands out the Logis du Roi, the royal palace, which welcomed four kings of France: Charles VII, Louis XI, Charles VIII and Louis XIIbut also feisty and determined women like Joan of Arc, Queen Anne of Brittany and Agnès Sorel. The latter was the favorite lover of King Charles VII, so favored that she played an important role in the life of the sovereign (to whom she bore four children), becoming his muse and among the most influential women of his time. She will die at just 28 years old, in 1450, following her last premature birth and she will be buried like a queen in the splendid Collegiate Church of Sant’Orso (12th century), characterized by a superb portal carved in polychrome stone and two towers with pyramidal domes. However, to admire a vision of Touraine in the nineteenth century, the paintings of the landscape painter Emmanuel Lansyer (1835-1893) exhibited in his house-museum are perfect.
Delicious shopping at the market
You change the atmosphere (and century) by going down to the lower part of Loches, with a Renaissance feel. Upon first approach, the brightness of the place is astonishing, derived from the white tuff, the queen stone of the Loire with which the famous manors were built. It is a harmonious whole from which architectural jewels emerge, such as the Tower of Sant’Antonio with the double function of bell tower and watchtower, the Cordeliers and Picois access gates inserted in the lost city walls that surrounded the lower city, or the adjacent noble palaces of the Chancellery and the Centaur with stupendous bas-relief sculptures on the facades. Loches comes alive every Wednesday and Saturday, when the vast market of food from local farms takes place in the morning. Not to be missed for tasty purchases, from cheeses to cured meats and wines.
On the Loire for a walk in the castle park
To discover, however, the more bucolic character of Touraine you need to head to the far south, immersed in expanses of fields cultivated with wheat, rapeseed and flax, where life flows without haste. For centuries. If a Grand Pressigny the human presence of over one hundred thousand years ago is demonstrated by the collection of flints kept in the Museum of Prehistory, in Boussay you don’t need to be friends with the owners of the private castle of the same name, complete with a moat, to walk in the park shaded by imposing lime and walnut trees: the green oasis is open to everyone free of charge (from 9am to 6pm, every day) French noblesse oblige; while in Preuilly-surClaise the Benedictine abbey of Saint-Pierre (11th-19th century) takes care of the faithful.
The Castle of Boussay. Photo by Massimo Ripani.
Furthermore, near the village, a former railway line was converted in 2021 into the Voie Verte 26 kilometer cycle-pedestrian path in nature (bike rental: from Paulette, murielleduboisclem. wixsite.com/website ). Returning towards Loches, crossing a forest of spectacular integrity, after passing the solitary Chapelle du Liget, you reach the Chartreuse du Liget built in 1180: it can only be visited from the outside, but the size of the complex of the Carthusian monks offers an idea of the power that religious people had in the Middle Ages.
Meeting with Lucifer
The statue of Lucifer by Costantino Corti, in the park of Montrésor Castle. Photo by Massimo Ripani.
Continuing here is Montrésor, one of the smallest French municipalities (345 inhabitants) dominated by a medieval fortress and a Renaissance castle surrounded by a romantic park, where the sculpture depicting Lucifer stands out. A curiosity: Mick Jagger, owner of a castle in Touraine, in Pocé-sur-Cisse, wanted to buy the statue but the work remained in his home. In this jewel-village, after visiting the manor and the suggestive Collegiate Church of San Giovanni Battista, it is worth taking a walk along the Indrois river to get to the Jardinier bridge, made of iron around 1870 by the Eiffel workshops (those of the creator of the iconic symbol of Paris) to allow the castle gardeners to easily access the other bank.
Chenonceau, the disputed castle
The scenic Château de Chenonceau, a UNESCO heritage site, once the residence of Catherine de’ Medici. (Getty Images)
Not to be missed Chédigny, listed as Village Jardin: small, pedestrian and loved by painters, it reveals itself in all its grace among cascades of flowers, climbing roses and plants that adorn windows, facades and streets. Further north, it appears the scenic Château de Chenonceau, a UNESCO heritage site among the stars of Touraine. Built in the 16th century on the Cher River, on the ashes of a fortress and a fortified mill, it was the sumptuous Renaissance resistance of nobles, sovereigns and women who are antagonists-enemies among themselves, between intrigues and love affairs. First of all Diana of Poitiers (1499-1566) the lover of King Henry II and Caterina de’ Medici (1519-1589), wife of the monarch who expelled her rival upon the death of her husbandor. Both gave a relevant and personal architectural imprint to the castle and its splendid gardens, still among the most eye-catching in France today.
A touch of contemporary green
The work Carré et Rond, by Ku Kongjian, in the park of Chaumont Castle. Photo by Massimo Ripani.
The lives of the two women also intersect in Chaumont Castle about twenty kilometers away, just outside the Tourain territoryAnd. In exchange for the return of Chenonceau, the queen gave Diana this manor, a “diplomatic” gesture to get her away. Two annual events contribute to turning the spotlight on Chaumont Castle and the wonderful 32-hectare historic park. The first is the Garden Festival (until November 5)which this year with the theme “Resilient Garden” reflects on climate change thanks to the creations of green artist-architects. The second is Saison d’Art (until 29 October) exhibition of contemporary works and installations, inside and outside the manor, created by international artists. Two events that alone are worth the trip in autumn.
Where to sleep in the Loire
Le Jardin des Hypothèses by Bernard Lassus. in the park of Chaumont Castle. Photo by Massimo Ripani.
Le George
39 Rue du Quintefol, Loches.
Small charming hotel, overlooking the Indre River. Housed in a former 19th-century coaching inn, it offers 20 cozy rooms, contemporary furnishings and a good restaurant with seasonal dishes and creative touches. Double room in b&b from €95. le-george.com
Le Bois des Chambres
328 Queneau, Chaumont-sur-Loire.
Original hotel made up of several Nordic-style buildings. In the past it was a farm, today it is a design structure with an eco-green-sustainable character. The restaurant is excellent with various tasting menus, minimal but quality dishes. Open in June 2022, it has 39 rooms. Double room in b&b from €171. leboisdeschambres.fr
Where to eat
Le Prosper
4 Rue du Quintefol, Loches.
In the center of the town, a delightful little restaurant with a few tables at the entrance and in a cozy room. Local specialties on the menu and a pleasant atmosphere of a bistro with character. Reservation is recommended. facebook.com/prosperdeloches
Brasserie Carpé Diem
Pièce de Chemillé, Chemillé-sur-Indrois.
Overlooking a pond, informal atmosphere, furnishings with some vintage pieces. The menu, of seasonal and local dishes, is presented at the table on a large blackboard. brasserie-carpediem.fr
Do
Hot air balloon flights
Aerocom organizes hot air balloon flights over the castles of Chenonceau, Amboise, Chamont-sur-Loire and Blois. The tour takes place at sunrise and sunset, magical hours to enjoy the Loire Valley and its extraordinary architectural heritage from above. Rates from €209 per person. aerocom.fr
Info
loches-castelli-loira.it
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