Burberry’s spring/summer 2023 collection made its grand debut on Monday in London after the catwalk show during London Fashion Week was postponed out of respect for Queen Elizabeth II and royal connections. But not only the British fashion house had a special moment, but also designer Riccardo Tisci. After almost five years with the company, he presented his last collection for Burberry. He hands over creative direction to Daniel Lee.
Originally slated to take place in iconic Trafalgar Square, Burberry moved indoors instead, bringing in supermodels Naomi Campbell, Erin O’Connor, Karen Elson, Bella Hadid and Irina Shayk to showcase their sensual, beach-inspired collection. Not only the catwalk was filled with stars, also celebrities like Kanye West, Gillian Anderson, Simone Ashley, Stormzy and Erykah Badu watched from the front row.
The collection itself offered a new sensuality that explored a “body-consciousness” with see-through slip dresses, lingerie-inspired tops and cut-out swimsuits, some of which were also used as evening wear.
Tisci said the SS23 collection was inspired by British beach life and the “tension between dressing and undressing, between exposure and protection, underwear and outerwear” as part of its ongoing quest to offer a new modern DNA for Burberry.
“In the summertime, the beach in Britain is a place of democracy and community. It’s the place where people from all cultures can gather for simple pleasures,” Tisci said in a statement. “I wanted to bring that ideology, that emotion, to an entire collection. I wanted that spirit of togetherness and joy, that reality, to express.”
It was not a collection inspired by the beauty of the British coast, such as the cliffs, the sand or the shells, but rather by the meeting of different people on the beach itself, with Tisci adding that he saw the beach as a ” place of community, of liberation”.
This sense of freedom and body hugging was evident throughout the collection, with outerwear and pieces inspired by underwear, swimwear and lingerie, all in homage to the unpredictable British weather.
Statement looks included swimsuits integrated into floor length dresses, with integrated bodysuits highlighted by cutouts around the waist, crotch and hips, while other dresses were layered with shimmery swimsuits and some looks featured cutouts, revealing tiny bikini tops. Swimwear was also styled in Burberry’s famous check over monogram jumpsuits.
For men, the focus for SS23 was streetwear: tailored suits were seen alongside slouchy wide-leg trousers, sweatshirts and t-shirts, and sturdy checked jackets, loosened up with layers of lace and tulle. For women, sun-bleached denim was made into high-waisted skirts and jackets.
Tisci also added playful touches to the collection, with quilted and sequined inflatable pockets on the arms reminiscent of swimming aids, contrasting with the slim silhouettes. He also added padded bracelets and oversized bows to a range of elegant velvet evening dresses. The British beach atmosphere was complemented by sophisticated hats made of lace, leather and transparent, sustainable PVC, crystallized swimming goggles as jewelery and shark earrings.
This translated and edited post previously appeared on FashionUnited.uk.