Niloy Rahman is Store Director at Emerson Renaldi. He returned to the company run by the Pfeiff family six months ago to be the first outsider to take over store management. He is also responsible for purchasing menswear with Jacopo De Manzolini, the husband of owner Olivia Pfeiff. Pfeiff, who is the second generation to run the family business, is responsible for purchasing womenswear.
In the interview, Rahman reveals how the rebranding of the Nuremberg fashion retailer, which was founded in 1979, is being received by regular customers and new customers, which trends determine menswear and which hot brands are new to the range.
You have been working at Emerson Renaldi again for about six months now. How was the return?
The return was good because I had already worked at Emerson Renaldi for seven years and therefore I already felt connected to the company. But Emerson Renaldi has also developed significantly in recent years, established new structures and the team has also grown. We have taken a big step, especially when it comes to multi-channel digitalization.
We are a very personal and family-run company, which is why we maintain a close relationship, especially with our regular customers. We are an event-oriented company and the topic is extremely important in stationary retail in order to catch our customers locally, because the range and options are now so large that you have to do the last 20 percent more to keep the customers to bind. We also have great suppliers who are part of our regular events and want to explore new ways of stationary retail and collaboration with us.
What do you offer your customers at the events?
This Christmas season we had our ‘Christmas Saturdays’, where, among other things, we had a specially made glow bar. But we also try to strengthen our external visibility in our city with events and create great moments for our customers. Dolce & Gabbana had its first German pop-up in our area. We are of course following these types of events and moments again this year.
We are also active with our Instagram account via live video every Friday. Personally, I present my ‘essentials’ every week to make the menswear area even more approachable and tangible. We also aim to create a personal connection with our customers in the physical and online stores.
You joined the Pfeiff family company as the first external store director. How is the collaboration going?
Because I was already in the company before and we already had a very close and good relationship, it’s very familiar. I feel very comfortable and am very grateful for the trust shown. It’s going in the right direction.
Of course, it’s also a learning experience for us because we’re rebuilding the structure – a challenge for a family business. In the long term, we strive for a well-thought-out and solid corporate organization without neglecting the family vibe.
You didn’t leave Nuremberg the whole time. What does the location offer?
Nuremberg has great potential when it comes to fashion and frequency, a huge catchment area, with important headquarters – such as Adidas, Puma, Schaeffler and Siemens – and we also have very successful regional medium-sized entrepreneurs, which of course we want to draw on.
How is the rebranding that was driven forward with your appointment going?
In 2023 we invested a lot in renovation and rebranding, which is reflected both externally and internally. In addition to factors such as company positioning, image and digital targeting through a younger look, what is of course particularly relevant for me as a store manager is the stationary store and how the redesign affects it.
It was a change, especially for the regular customers, but of course also for us personally, as the branding changed with a new logo, bags and interior. Everyone who visits us and has already been there will not recognize the store – international flair in the middle of Nuremberg. It is the ‘place to be’ for our customers. They really appreciate that we have created such a feel-good place for them and also just come by for a drink or a glass of espresso.
For those who haven’t seen the store before: What exactly has changed?
We have relaunched the entire branding. The interior is more minimalist, industrial, timeless, very modern. We simply completely relaunched everything from the outside branding of the store to the bags to the playlist that plays in the store. And it’s not always easy to find a good playlist. This creates the first impression on customers. They come in and hear cool music – those are the little things we want to perfect. The role of host is a very important factor for me personally. We would also like to redefine this and take it to another level.
We have not only invested in our store, but also in new office space. We were even awarded a design prize for this. It is not only an investment for our customers, but also for our employees, who therefore have excellent working conditions.
Do you also want to reach a new, younger target group with the realignment? If so, how do you want to keep your regular customers and attract new customers?
It’s definitely a balancing act. Our loyal regular customers will remain loyal as we strive to maintain this care every day. But clearly there is a target group that we don’t miss and would like to reach out to.
Of course, we also try to offer this affordable luxury with brands with niche products and accessories. Every customer who comes into our store should be able to buy something. Of course we are a luxurious house, but we still want to put this inhibition aside and would also like to have really cool, modern people with us who would simply take a candle or a book with them. They should experience the good atmosphere in the store and then maybe next time it won’t just be about the candle.
Do young talents also play a role in your product range?
Of course, we always try to present the best of the best on site. We are a house that likes to try and test. However, we do not have the capacity to carry out as many tests as the other large department stores.
With Gucci – back in the range this season – as well as Prada and Miu Miu from autumn/winter 24, the new brands are more likely to have big budgets that go beyond such a test. That’s where our absolute focus lies.
Which other brands are doing well for you right now?
Personally, I am also a fan of affordable luxury. These include brands such as Jacquemus, Acne, Anine Bing and Diesel, which we also sell well and whose demand is very high. The customers who are interested in these brands are a very fashion-conscious target group who are well informed. I had great conversations in the store and met some cool people.
Which brand still makes you cheer?
I have great sympathy for CP Company. The brand appears on social media every day and has become my secret favorite for next winter. Very traditional and timeless with great signature pieces.
Of course, this also goes hand in hand with the Gorpcore trend. What other trends do you see in menswear?
It’s more in the direction of ‘back to basics’. The topic of knitwear is becoming more relevant from season to season, across all target groups – again for FW24. The fashion-conscious man wants to be more dressed. He needs a product with which he can be out and about during the day, but can also go to dinner – just that mix of high quality and uncomplicated.
The customer also wants to go a little more in the classic direction and still feel comfortable. Especially after comfort was so important during Corona. Now people are asking more often about loafer models or cool suit trousers. It becomes more formal but keeps that fashion touch where it’s not a three piece suit but a pair of smart trousers with a knit top.
Which pieces are currently doing well for you?
The performance knit is going really well. Otherwise, of course, now the pieces from Gucci. As soon as they arrive, they are already sold. Since we also send pictures to our customers, some products don’t even make it to the store.
Gucci is simply the most commercial luxury brand where customers are willing to spend more money. You rarely have to argue and explain the price – as with a knitted piece from other high-class niche brands.
So is a well-known brand identity still important to your customers, as was also seen in the Logomania trend?
Logomania is going back a bit, but we’re still selling all-over prints with Gucci and Balenciaga logos again. Because tourists, trade fair visitors and our local customers come to us, such trends are difficult for us to define. In addition, we are happy to respond individually to the needs of our customers thanks to our very diverse range.
Overall, customers seem to be buying more sustainably and no longer at short notice. For a long time, they needed a new t-shirt to go out every weekend. Now they’re thinking about whether it’s something they can wear again another day or pass on.
How do you start the new menswear order season?
We do a lot of digital work, which is why we don’t have a lot of travel plans at the beginning of the year. Digital appointments also save us a lot of costs. Since we use a global online shop and have a lot of trade fair visitors and tourists here, but still want to attract our regular customers, strategically it is always a positive challenge for us.
You often sit in the showroom and immediately think of a few regular customers. This is completely normal and becomes noticeable in the classification at the latest.
What challenges are you currently facing?
I tend to start from the current situation and look towards the future. The current situation and what is happening in the world is not easy. The topic of war also continues to concern us, the industry and consumers. People aren’t necessarily prioritizing going into the city and having a nice day of shopping right now. Of course, this is a chain reaction somewhere for every industry. I just hope that things go in the right direction in the new year, that we can focus on day-to-day business again and no longer have to look so much at what’s happening left and right. Everything should just become a little more positive.
Nevertheless, the price issue with the high production costs is still relevant. Arguing these changes to customers is a challenge and is not understood by everyone.