You can get a high price for a Finnish, handmade leather backpack abroad – Kasper’s entrepreneurs know that. We were able to follow the making of the bags from the beginning.
Recently, there has been a lot of bad news from the Finnish fashion industry. Recently, for example, the internationally respected Myssyfarmi has had to close, and the women’s clothing company Voglia has been declared bankrupt.
However, the future is not hopeless, as there are also success stories among Finnish brands. One successful story lives and breathes at a leather workshop in Hämeenlinna.
We got to watch the production of handcrafted leather products at Kasper’s workshop. At the same time, we heard how a profitable company has been created from a fashion brand through many twists and turns. The founder explains what kind of products are in demand on the international market.
European, vegetable-tanned cowhide is used in the manufacture of leather backpacks. Chief operating officer Michael Tervanen describes the leather as saddle leather-type and rough. Pete Anikari
Kasper aims to ensure that the products are long-term investments – they can be repaired, and their resale value is maintained. Founder and designer Janne Kasperi Suhonen believes that a backpack can be made to last 50 years.
During long-term use, the appearance of the leather changes and a personal relationship is formed with the product. For example, UV radiation affects the color of the leather over time, and it becomes a personal look when used.
– People long for meaningful objects, says Suhonen.
Finding this market niche has been the key to success. According to Suhonen, people want products that are not fast fashion, but not full luxury either, but something in between. He uses the term “utility luxury”.
For example, Kasper’s best-selling fold top backpack has a price of 720 euros. You can get a smaller backpack of the same style for 580 euros.
Often, a “craft business” based on handicraft starts from the fact that the founder makes a product for himself. Today, Janne Kasperi Suhonen designs all of Kasper’s models. Pete Anikari
– We are protected by the fact that most of our market is outside of Finland. We don’t see small fluctuations that much, says Suhonen.
– Last year we had 80 percent growth compared to the previous year, and this year we aim for 40-60 percent growth. Two thirds of all sales come from abroad.
The goal is for the workshop to have two or three more employees per year.
The wearing parts of the bags are designed to be replaceable, and they do not, for example, use zippers that could break. Pete Anikari
Inspiration was sought from France
One way to make the operation of the tannery financially reasonable has been to combine it with an education program. Inspiration for this has been sought from the Paris fashion brand Hermés, which has its own training program, says Kasper’s operational director Michael Tervanen.
– They have succeeded in creating jobs in a disappearing industry. In Finland, handicrafts are often thought of as a hobby, but the most valuable companies in Europe are based on handicrafts, says Tervanen.
Kasper has a four-month long leathersmith training program, which is implemented in cooperation with the Tavastia vocational school.
– Hämeenlinna is home to one of Finland’s two shoemaking lines, and that was our reason for coming here, Suhonen says.
Leather is used sparingly in the workshop, and only the smallest shreds go to waste. Pete Anikari
In the training, we study leather products three days a week.
– Of course, we are looking for people who are motivated in this field – either to come to work for us or to start something of their own.
What makes working with leather unique is that the stitching has to go right every time.
– During the training, all work phases become familiar. During the training phase, you have to dare to do it. If there is a mistake, those products will be used as practice pieces, says Tervanen.
In the workshop, the production of leather bags, backpacks and, for example, knife sheaths takes place in series of 10–15 pieces. It takes six hours to make one backpack from start to finish. Bags are made by four employees.
Elli Sihvo got a job at Kasper’s workshop after the training program. Pete Anikari
One of them has gone through Kasper’s training program Elli Sihvo.
– The training was versatile and you could practice in peace. It was suitable for my own life situation, says Sihvo.
Sihvo already had a degree in interior design, but due to asthma he had to leave his work in the upholstery industry behind.
– It was too dusty.
– I have been able to do all kinds of things here according to orders. Sometimes I make more backpacks, sometimes 10 belts, for example, Sihvo describes his working day.
Henna Skogsberg is one of Kasper’s first employees. “We all do everything. The work atmosphere is nice,” he says. Pete Anikari
Sales directly to the consumer
Kasper’s business model is based on the fact that the products are sold directly to the final consumer based on advance reservations. There is no retailer in between, which would lower the final price of the product, Suhonen and Tervanen illustrate.
– That’s why we have the opportunity to be uncompromising. When there are no middlemen, there is an opportunity to put more value into the product. Everyone here in the workshop knows where the bags they make go, and that’s part of creating professional pride.
“When you put the backpack into use, you have to push it in, but the ruggedness helps to make it easy to carry,” says Michael Tervanen. Pete Anikari
From the beginning, the products have been sold to an international audience in addition to Finns, and they are especially interesting in the United States and Japan.
– In Finland, there has been a mentality that domestic products are sold domestically, but it is a really tough export product. The Nordic countries have a reputation for doing things properly here, says Suhonen.
“Focus on quality”
Kasper’s story started from Janne Kasperi Suhonen’s own need. The high quality European bag she was using broke and she needed a new one.
– The first bags went to hell. When I got the first functional bag, I showed it around, and interest arose, says Suhonen.
– Quality is worth it. In 2015, we explored options for resale, but there came pressure to make a cheaper product.
Suhonen didn’t go for this, because he wanted to make the products to his liking – that is, good enough. For about ten years, he received feedback that it was not worth doing this.
By riveting, the products are made more durable, but the seams would be fine without rivets. Pete Anikari
In the end, however, following your own path was the right choice.
– Focus on uncompromising quality, he advises other entrepreneurs.
In addition, Kasper’s entrepreneurs recommend seeking expertise in Europe. They themselves plan to organize, for example, a teacher or student exchange.
– There are centuries-old traditions that have not disappeared anywhere.
– We want more competitors, and we are happy to help others. There could be a whole village of handicraft entrepreneurs here, Suhonen gestures around.
Kasper’s products are made by hand in a workshop in Hämeenlinna. “We make the product as well as we want, and the customer decides if it’s worth it,” says Janne Kasperi Suhonen. Pete Anikari
