Paris – At a time when some luxury brands present their collections at their own pace, the House of Pierre Cardin wants to be part of Paris Fashion Week. This endeavor comes a year after the death of the eponymous couturier, who had played by his own rules for a quarter of a century.
As a first step in this direction, his nephew, Rodrigo Basilicati-Cardin, CEO of the label, will present a tribute show on January 28th, the day after Haute Couture week, to Pierre Cardin, who died in December 2020 at the age of 98 passed away “Pierre wanted to be free. As he approached his 80th birthday, he said “there are many young designers who need to be integrated into this fashion week” and that he didn’t want to take their place, Rodrigo Basilicati-Cardin reminded AFP.
The house has often shown its collections in extraordinary places: on the Great Wall of China in 2018, in Astana (Kazakhstan) in 2017, in Moscow in 2016, or at the Châtelet Theater in Paris for the screening of a film about the fashion designer in 2020. Dior presented In 2015, his collection at the Palais Bulles in Provence, Pierre Cardin’s favorite residence. There was no shortage of events when the designer was alive and never stopped working. Today, Rodrigo Basilicati-Cardin wants to “re-launch the brand” and capitalize on the prestige of French Fashion Week and the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode.
“We want to be included in fashion week, at least once a year. We need the communication. My uncle did a lot and communication came naturally. He dedicated the last part of his life to creativity, not to sales,” says Rodrigo Basilicati-Cardin.
space theme
The 30-minute tribute show, which is two to three times longer than couture week shows, will move to Le Bourget near Paris at the Musée de l’Air et de l’Espace and will feature some 30 unreleased models by Cardin as well Present clothing from the design studio in the same graphic, colorful and minimalist style.
“We wanted to do this with a space theme, to evoke the ’60s when Pierre Cardin wanted to dress people who go on spaceships,” his nephew pointed out. “He was the first, along with André Courrèges, who dared to do what was criticized by everyone at the time.”
General Manager by Pierre Cardin in 2018, and appointed President shortly before his death, Mr. Basilicati-Cardin, an engineer and graphic designer by training, has worked with his great-uncle since the late 1990s and was particularly involved in the design of the accessories.
One of 50 drawings will be selected
He currently also acts as artistic director, designing the glasses himself and selecting the ideas to be developed. “25 years ago my uncle met me as a designer, I designed lamps and furniture. He liked a certain simplicity, love of curves (…) He explained things to me that I did instinctively.” On his smartphone, he constantly looks at hundreds of drawings sent to him by the studio.
“In one of 50 drawings, I find something new, I take it, and we work on the proportions,” as with this “bell-shaped, closed skirt, reminiscent of a street lamp.” He’s currently drawing on the house’s creativity, but he is considering assembling a group of outside designers to bring a breath of fresh air to the house he wants to ‘rejuvenate’. He also plans to organize an event to mark Pierre Cardin’s 100th birthday on July 2, “which may be held in Venice,” the fashion designer’s birthplace. (AFP)
This article was previously published on FashionUnited.fr. Translation and editing: Barbara Russ