The men’s fashion shows for the Fall/Winter 26 season are now a few weeks behind us. Enough time to internalize and recapitulate what happened. That’s exactly what menswear buyer Shuhei Iwasa from the Japanese department store chain Takashimaya has done.
He is responsible for “CS Case Study” at the retailer. These are curated fashion spaces that offer “trendy global brands” such as JW Anderson, Maison Margiela and Facetasm to their fashion-conscious menswear clientele at Takashimaya locations in Osaka, Kyoto, Nihombashi, Yokohama, Shinjuku and Tamagawa.
In an interview, Iwasa reveals what developments he noticed at the fashion weeks in Paris, Milan and Berlin and what is currently exciting his local customers.
What insights have you gained from fashion weeks?
Until last year, contemporary brands focused on genderless styles with oversized silhouettes and a certain cuteness. Now I had the impression that the genderless theme was expressed through slim silhouettes and elegance.
Specifically, there were many styles that created an I-line silhouette through extremely long coats and created a feminine look with additional volume around the face and hands.
Which fashion weeks have you attended?
Milan, Paris and Berlin.
It’s not the first time you’ve been to Berlin Fashion Week. What did you particularly like this time?
The location, the staging and the brands’ creations have improved significantly compared to last season. In addition, all visitors showed a great passion for fashion and formed their very own community.
Have you discovered any new brands?
OBS, Sezgin, Richert Beil
Is there room for these brands in your portfolio, and if so, which ones will you order?
I’ve already started shopping from Buzigahill, but I’m also planning to order Brand – a brand I’ve been interested in for a while – as well as OBS, which I saw this time and thought was good.
In Berlin you mentioned that collections shown in Western countries and presented by big models can be more difficult for the Japanese market. Why is that?
Japanese people are said to have “baby faces”. Power shoulder jackets and long tops are therefore particularly unpopular as they quickly give off a childish impression.
Which styles are currently popular with your customers?
Brands that appeal to diverse sensibilities through fashion and have a cultural connection – Acne Studios, Comme des Garçons, Toga. It also includes brands that offer sophisticated fashion and capture a mood that moves towards elegance while maintaining street style elements that are very culturally relatable – Stone Island, Our Legacy and Tatras.
2025 was marked by Labubus and the ongoing K-pop boom. What are Japanese consumers currently excited about?
The same trend was of course also observed in Japan. Fashion is becoming more and more diverse around the world, so I find it increasingly difficult to pinpoint a single trend.
What is clear, however, is that there is a polarization between people who identify with brands that communicate passion and ideas through fashion and those who buy because they care about who wears the clothes.
Overall, consumer sentiment in Japan appears to be recovering somewhat. Do you also notice this with your customers?
Yes, we notice that.
What do you hope for the Japanese fashion retail sector?
I think it is important to spread fashion that combines sustainability and creativity not only among fashion-conscious people, but also among ordinary consumers.
The interview was conducted in writing.
