THEThe skin does not age, it loses vitality. And so the ability to self-repair decreases. «Pythagoras already associated beauty with rhythm, understood as harmony between the parts, and vigor is what makes it possible. When it fails, that harmony is interrupted. And it does it even before the wrinkles tell the story” explains Paolo Siragusa, cosmetic designer. «Today science confirms this more and more clearly: Skin longevity does not just depend on the creams we applybut on how the cells are able to produce and manage its reserves over time.”
What is skin longevity?
Inside each cell there is a precise, almost silent gear that keeps everything in balance. «NAD+ (an oxidoreductive coenzyme, ed) regulates metabolism and repair processes. Mitochondria produce activity but are vulnerable to stress. ATP (the main energy-carrying molecule in all living cells, ed) is the currency that allows renewal, the synthesis of collagen and the solidity of the barrier” claims Paolo Siragusa.
«When this system slows down, the skin is not only “older”, it is less efficient. And there is an invisible thread that ties this whole universe together: chronic low-grade inflammation. «Not the sharp and visible one, but a more subtle, constant, almost imperceptible form called inflammagingwhich goes hand in hand with aging.
«Stress, irregular sleep, disordered eating, glycemic spikes, everything converges on a central organization, the hypothalamic-cortisol axis. When this balance is altered, the body enters a state of continuous alert. The result is a progressive loss of efficiency”
For a neck and décolleté that do not betray the signs of time: “Cellular Performance Throat and Bust Lifting Effect” by Sensai. (photo Getty Images)
The new skincare formulas for “skin longevity”
The world of cosmetics is changing its perspective. «A fresh and vital face for a long time is the result of a logical and complex system: genetics, environmental exposure, oxidative stress, microbiota, lifestyle. And the most advanced cosmetics is starting to dialogue with all these factors.”
The new complexes are multifunctional: they act on oxidative stress and inflammationsupport cellular communication, help repair processes. Biomimetic peptides, for example, function as true biological messengers. They do not “force” biological mechanisms but communicate with them, activating responses that come from within” continues the expert.
At the same time, delivery technologies are changing the way each molecule works. «Liposomes, exosomes, multilayer structures improve bioavailability and make the action more targeted».
What is NAD+
The most discussed ingredient is also the most misunderstood. «NAD+ is not present in pure form in creams and serums because it is unstable. We find its precursors: niacinamide, NMN (a derivative of vitamin B3, ed), nicotinamide riboside, which are converted before use. They don’t give an immediate effect, but they start a conversation with skin biology. Giving brightness, uniformity and compactness.”
LED lights and waves to help cosmetics
LED photostimulation is one of the most interesting innovations for charging, because it changes the level of supply itself. «The red and infrared wavelengths do not work on the surface, but intervene directly on vital cellular processes. It is not a cosmetic effect in the classic sense. It is a bioenergetic interaction. And this is where the concept of wearable beautydevices that allow you to integrate this type of stimulation into everyday life. They do not replace skincare, but complete it» concludes Paolo Siragusa.
Cosmetics are not enough. For young skin, you need diet and movement
If dynamism is key, then the first treatment is not cosmetic. «It’s physiological. Low intensity aerobic activities, such as fast walking or slow running, build the base: they stimulate the production of new, younger mitochondria, improving the body’s ability to produce power in a stable and efficient way even in the skin texture” says the expert.
«High intensity workouts instead work on quality: making them bigger and more performing, increasing their efficiency. It is a continuous dialogue between construction and optimization.”
Then there’s the diet. «The one based on minimally processed foods helps to stabilize blood sugar and improve the activity of the immune system. It’s not just a question of food, but of reserve: less waste, more efficiency. And the complexion is often the mirror of what changes inside” underlines Siragusa, who adds: “This balance reflects a surprisingly current vision. The living being works like this: from an integrated complex based on movement, nutrition and metabolism, a unique, visible result emerges».
A new regenerative technique, Lipogems
A new regenerative and minimally invasive technique aims for natural and long-lasting results. Also to counteract the signs of emptying the face. The Professor tells us about it Carlo TremoladaSpecialist in Plastic, Reconstructive and Aesthetic Surgery, Maxillofacial Surgery, Scientific Director of Image Regenerative Clinic.
«It is an intervention that it takes place in a single session, and lasts about an hour. Using a device called Lipogemsof which I am the inventor, the process begins with the taking fat tissue from the person, usually from areas such as the hips or abdomengenerally particularly rich in microvessels, capillaries and venules, on which pericytes, precursors of mesenchymal stem cells, are found.”
«This material, organic and vital, is then micro-fractured as it is, without being purified from any blood residues, with a particular procedure that reduces it into very small pieces, around 300 microns: this size preserves its integrity and, consequently, its activity and effectiveness. Once reimplanted it immediately releases very powerful anti-inflammatory factors. Inoculation into the skin texture is performed in two different ways, to ensure a complete approach to rejuvenation. It can be done in depth, i.e. below the dermisby means of thin cannulas. Here it carries out intensive regeneration, capable of significantly improving subcutaneous fat and general structure. Depending on the needs, the graft can also be concentrated at a more superficial level, immediately below the epidermisusing a microneedling device, called a SkinPen. It does not require general anesthesia, and is carried out after sedation, similar to that used for a gastroscopy, for example. Recovery is extremely rapid. You can return to normal life immediately after the session.
What results does it achieve?
It is not only used to mask the signs of aging because it is an excellent support for prevention. This approach represents a significant step forward in aesthetic medicine, because it offers a solution that works in harmony with the body’s natural mechanisms for real, deep and lasting rejuvenation. Once reintroduced, these precious cells perform significant stimulation, and act as “medicinal signalers” (Mesenchymal Signaling Cells).
They release substances such as cytokines and exosomes, which can be compared to real “natural drugs” produced by our body. They guide and stimulate other resident cells to carry out their self-renewal work, triggering a complex and long-lasting process. They also boast a powerful and prolonged anti-inflammatory effect, which helps to counteract one of the key factors of aging.
This increases the vascular density of the tissues, i.e. the number of micro-capillaries, which translates into a visibly younger and healthier complexion, improving the appearance of wrinkles and signs of aging. The skin appears brighter, more compact and with better elasticity. Signs and sagging improve significantly thanks to the renewal of the elastic fibres. Results are not immediate, and depend on personal response, manifesting over the course of weeks and, in some cases, months. The regenerative effect is very powerful and long-lasting. Frequent re-grafting is not necessary.
