The world’s leading fast-fashion provider Shein has closed a strategic partnership with the French women’s fashion brand Pimkie. The label, founded in 1971, will be distributed internationally via the marketplace of Shein International. The cooperation also marks the start of Shein Xcelerator in France – a program that is intended to support aspiring and established brands in their global expansion.

As part of the collaboration, Pimkie has access to Sheins logistics services, on-demand production and order processing. However, the French brand keeps control of its brand identity, its intellectual property and its branch network.

Survival strategy for pimkie

The agreement underlines Pimkies to advance the digital transformation and to open up new international growth channels. The brand was recently reoriented under the leadership of majority shareholder Halassi. The step is considered a strategy that is important in survival, since numerous French mid-range brands such as Kaporal, NAF NAF, Camaïeu or Jennyfer have not been able to withstand competitive pressure in recent years.

For Shein, the partnership also means strengthening its position in a market that has been critical of the group for a long time. Through cooperation with a traditional brand like Pimkie, Shein not only wants to present itself as a provider of cheaper fast fashion, but also as an innovation and growth partner of local labels.

Criticism from the industry

However, the announcement met with significant criticism. Yann Rivoallan, President of the Fédération Française du Prêt-à-porter Féminin, described the cooperation on LinkedIn as “shame” and even “criminal association”. He accuses Shein of disregarding labor rights, burdening the environment and endangering numerous jobs in France. Rivoallan calls for a European coalition that meets the Chinese Group’s business model with increased customs and trading policies.

The debate illustrates the division within the French fashion industry: While some battered brands in alliances with global platforms see levers for growth and survival, industry associations warn of the legitimization of an ultra-fast fashion model, which in their view endangers both industry as well as employment and environment.

Accordingly, the partnership for Pimkie remains a risky undertaking. On the one hand, it opens up access to new markets, on the other hand there is a risk of loss of trust among customers: inside, which are increasingly emphasizing ethical and sustainable fashion. The overlap of the target groups of Pimkie and Shein indicates commercial potential, but while Brussels are already working on stricter rules against Ultra-Fast-Fashion, the question remains: Will the market react faster-or politics?

This article was used with digital tools translated.


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