Seven trends from London Fashion Week FW26

London Fashion Week has come to an end. This edition for the upcoming Fall/Winter 2026 season was characterized by ambiguity, chaos and nostalgic references. While some runways were heavily influenced by pop culture discourse, others stuck firmly to classic elements. Here are some of the defining trends for FW26.

Gothic galore and Wuthering Heights

The abundant presence of corsets and lacing on the runway fittingly followed the release of Emerald Fennell’s Wuthering Heights. This is a modernized retelling of the famous gothic novel that dominated pop culture discourse for the past month. The designers seemed to unconsciously integrate these themes into their collections. Many featured contemporary interpretations of costumes representative of the 19th century.

One Simone Rocha dress even went so far as to unintentionally depict a specific scene from the new film. The ribboned braids of Catherine Earnshaw, played by Margot Robbie, appear in an exaggerated corset dress.

Elsewhere, Gothic details have been explored in a variety of techniques. Dramatic pointed collars were a staple of Paul Costelloe’s collection. Argo Studio, on the other hand, referenced folklore and traditional crafts – but with a sharper edge.

Some designers picked up on trends from even more distant times. The ruff, a distinctive feather-like collar worn in the mid-16th century, was given a modern interpretation. It appeared as a striking detail, as seen throughout Keburia’s FW26 line, but also appeared in more subtle forms, such as Dreaming Eli’s lace design.

Arbitrary layering

This season, designers seemed to challenge the conventional shapes of everyday silhouettes by reinterpreting the rules of layering. Classic garments lost their original meaning and were transformed to fulfill almost new functions.

At Fashion East, the layers became almost unrecognizable and appeared haphazardly over the models. Toga, meanwhile, created surprising silhouettes by rearranging cardigans and shirts to create waist-skimming shapes. Bora Aksu, in turn, chose to present as many pieces as possible in one look, often combining multiple blouses, dramatic veils and billowing skirts.

Soft as a sheep

One material that stood out this season was reminiscent of raw wool or fur. The designers mainly used this texture as an additional accessory. Hats, scarves and gloves were decorated with the shaggy material and were typically paired into simpler, casual silhouettes. In jackets, the shapes were more voluminous, as in togas, where fluffy coats were layered on top of each other and took on unstructured shapes.

Ambiguous tailoring

Androgynous tailoring entered a new era this LFW. Some designers kept classic shapes in the blazers but gave the shirts a new twist. Gothic elements remained present in high-necked blouses and medieval ruffles. Other collections exaggerated the blouse design, for example with over-emphasized collars or extended sleeves, which gave the traditional looks more flair.

Greek classics

The presence of simple, silky dresses indicated the enthusiasm for classic evening wear. Simple shapes maintained modern elegance. Designers enhanced the looks with subtle accessories such as scarves or belts or incorporated subtle details that gave the floor-length pieces more texture.

Power dressing

Women’s suits exuded power and presence this season. Designers were inspired by bygone eras to create striking shapes and unique cuts. Tolu Coker stood out with a collection of powerful suits, in striking colors from cobalt blue to lime green. Paul Costelloe explored different suit shapes throughout almost his entire line, all of which retained strong shoulders and structured lines.

Military jackets

A predominant silhouette was the military jacket, particularly in the Napoleonic style. The look appeared as a maximalist, theatrical addition to several collections. It evoked a sense of nostalgia while introducing the historic garment to a new Gen-Z audience.