Innovations have long shaped the outerwear sector. Performance, protection and material experiments are driving the market forward here. For Italian brand Save The Duck, which positions itself at the intersection of technical outerwear and urban fashion, this innovative mindset is embedded in its DNA. Built on an ethical and sustainable vision, the brand continues to look for ways to prove that responsibility and performance can coexist on a large scale.
One such challenge arose when mountaineer Minga Tenzi Sherpa asked the brand for a custom-made, feather-free suit. This should be able to withstand altitudes of over 8,000 meters and temperatures of minus 30 degrees Celsius.
“We experimented for six months,” the brand’s founder and chief executive officer (CEO), Nicolas Bargi, told FashionUnited after a celebration of Sherpa’s success in New York. Bargi noted that this was Save The Duck’s first foray into activewear. He explained that the brand’s mission was clear: to create a lightweight suit using animal-free technologies.
The final design used Plumtech, the synthetic insulation developed by Save The Duck. This has been combined with a recycled synthetic outer material and lining. “This gave us the opportunity to show the world that Plumtech synthetic fiber can deliver this performance,” said Bargi.
Sherpa climbed all 14 eight-thousanders in the world in this suit. This was not only a significant milestone for himself, but also a “world first in ethical mountaineering” as his equipment did not contain any materials of animal origin.
“To me, this confirms that synthetic insulation is the future of down,” Bargi explained. He reiterated a belief he has held since founding the brand in 2012, despite the broader fashion market’s doubts about synthetic fibers. “I have always believed that synthetic fibers are much more advanced than expected. At the beginning I was told that synthetic fibers were not suitable for fashion, but I was convinced that they could be the future.”
A growing connection to performance, without repositioning
Although activewear is not the focus, sport increasingly overlaps with Save The Duck’s brand philosophy. This year, the U.S. division partnered with the U.S. Figure Skating Team. This collaboration challenged the brand’s technical capabilities while reinforcing its mission.
“Save The Duck is not really an activewear brand, but ultimately it’s about the philosophy. We want to convey that message. One of the pillars of my company is what I call ‘edu-branding’ – educating people through the brand,” Bargi explained.
Nevertheless, the founder emphasized that the company is not planning any repositioning. Instead, these projects reflect how the boundaries between sport, performance and casual fashion are increasingly blurring.
Strong markets trigger retail offensives
Exploring new areas of innovation is just one of the ways Save The Duck is intentionally expanding its presence. Since announcing plans to reach €200 million in sales by 2029, the brand has sharpened its focus on regions where it sees the greatest growth opportunities.
Although the brand is currently present in 40 countries, the US (wholesale-oriented) and Japan (retail-oriented) outperform the slower European market. Italy and the DACH region remain solid. Overall, however, Bargi predicts only “low growth” across Europe for the coming year. This contrasts with the stronger forecasts for the US and Japan. In the latter country, the brand founded a joint venture in 2024 ahead of expansion plans.
To further support this growth, Save The Duck is accelerating its retail expansion. With 80 percent of its business coming from wholesale, the company intends to significantly increase its direct presence. “We have around 20 stores in Europe and plan to open 30 more in the next three to five years, plus additional stores in Japan,” Bargi revealed. “I am confident that we can reach 200 million euros in another two years.”
The brand continues to be supported by two main shareholders. These are the executives of the L’Occitane Group, Reinold Geiger and André J. Hoffman, who joined the company in 2022. “You’re here to build a long-lasting brand,” Bargi said.
A stronger, seasonal product mix
Another strategic focus is diversification beyond winter. Save The Duck’s product ratio is 75 to 25 between winter and summer. However, retailers are increasingly demanding year-round ranges. In response, the company is building a ‘Smart Leisure Collection’ that aims to adapt casual clothing for city life.
“When a brand becomes known for a category, customers search for that exact product from that brand,” Bargi noted. “Expanding into new categories takes time.”
In fact, growing as a sustainability-focused company comes with challenges. “Circular economy is very difficult to implement because everything you do in this industry has an impact,” emphasized Bargi. For example, garments made from multiple fibers make recycling more difficult. This makes a focus on longevity the most realistic solution.
Save The Duck has already launched circular economy initiatives. These range from resales with Ebay and Certilogo to a donation program with Humana. The brand was also one of the first to introduce digital product passports in anticipation of the upcoming EU regulation.
At the beginning of the brand’s history, however, acceptance in the industry proved difficult. A biodegradable jacket that turned into gas when buried was not well received by consumers. This led Save The Duck to move to more scalable innovations. Today, 85 percent of materials are recycled, although outerwear, unlike wool or knitwear, is already well suited to such processes.
The mood of consumers has also changed. Around 50 percent of ‘Duckers’ – a term coined by Bargi for the brand’s fans – buy from Save The Duck because of the philosophy. The rest buy mainly for style. “We need to capture the rest of this market that hasn’t gotten the message yet,” he said.
Preserving value in a discount-driven market
Of course, it is becoming increasingly difficult to convey this message to consumers who are particularly accustomed to discounts. Save The Duck has taken a position against campaigns like Black Friday. Instead, the brand educates consumers about why its products retain their value.
“We need to make money to explore the future of fiber and develop new branding. If everything is discounted, these fixed costs will not be covered,” Bargi said. “We think our jackets are good value for money, so we don’t discount them. Unfortunately, our wholesalers do. We’re just trying to set a good example and send a positive message.”
All of this paints a picture of a company and a founder ready to assert their position. The next chapter of Save The Duck is therefore one of both expansion and conviction. From the Sherpa expedition to global retail growth, every step reflects the solid founding ethos.
“For us, sustainability is not something we decide to invest in,” Bargi said. “It is our DNA. We are born this way. For those who invest in this commitment, it is a priority. But it must also be accompanied by financial progress because we are a for-profit company. However, my dream is to build a brand that can carry this big message of change across industry boundaries.”
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