The British designer Sarah Burton put on black and white on Friday during her debut as chief designer of Givenchy during the Paris Fashion Week and was inspired by the origins of the fashion house in the 1950s.
Burton, which was appointed in September of last year, presented her collection in the historical premises of the brand in the wealthy eighth arrondissement of the French capital.
“To go forward, you have to return to the beginning,” she was quoted in the accompanying notes on the show.
The autumn/winter 2025 collection was characterized by coats and jackets with sculptural silhouettes, which combined the elegance of the 1950s with modern oversized styles. The series mostly in gray, black and white comprised tweed coats and tutu-like skirts, supplemented by striking accents in bright yellow-a color that is considered an emerging trend.
The down-to-earth 51-year-old Burton from Nordland made a name for herself as creative director of Alexander McQueen in London after taking over the management in 2010 after the founder’s death.
“Givenchy has a very nice story,” she said in a vogue portrait last month about her decision to cross the channel and to accept a position at the label belonging to the LVMH group. “It appeals to me because it is a small house and lies in Paris.”
It is one of several new managers in important fashion houses. The brands that are currently either new designers: get used to the inside or look for fresh talents include Chanel, Tom Ford, Dries van notes, Dior Menswear, Bottega Veneta, Celine, Martin Margiela and Gucci. In addition, it is often speculated that Maria Grazia Chiuri, creative director for Dior women’s fashion, could soon give up her office.
The market for luxury fashion is under pressure: The demand is pursuing, especially in China, but also in developed markets, where inflation and economic uncertainties leave their traces.
