Pre-Fall 2025: The return of the pencil silhouette

Christian Dior is credited with inventing the pencil skirt, which he presented in his Fall/Winter 1954 collection. Its origins can be traced back to the so-called “hobble skirt” – a floor-length skirt with a narrow hem that was popular before the First World War.

He was inspired by Edith Berg, the first woman to fly on an airplane. Berg wore a long skirt, the hem of which she tied with a cord around her ankles to prevent it from getting caught in the plane’s machinery.

The length of skirts has long been associated with the fluctuations of the stock market. The “hem index” theory states that skirt lengths rise or fall in line with stock prices. According to the most common interpretation of this theory, skirts became shorter in good economic times and longer in times of crisis.

Today, however, there no longer seems to be a direct connection between these two factors. In fact, both short and long skirts are equally trendy these days. For the Pre-Fall 2025 season, numerous designers presented straight and narrow skirts as well as dresses in midi to maxi lengths that embody a feminine and slightly nostalgic style.

Here are ten of the best designs:

Erdem

Designer Erdem Moralioglu presented a long, sleeveless ombre satin dress in pink and green with a black squiggly print. Ivory flat slingbacks with oversized bow detailing completed the look.

Carolina Herrera

At Carolina Herrera, designer Wes Gordon created a black, two-layered chiffon skirt with rhinestone embellishments and a black, short-sleeved knit polo shirt. He also opted for slingbacks with a bow.

Herve Leger

An ankle-length hot pink dress with cut-out shoulders and “bandage” details was shown at Hervé Leger with black patent leather slingbacks.

Daniella Kallmeyer

A long ivory satin skirt without a waistband, a short black jacket and black strappy flat sandals were presented on the catwalk by Daniella Kallmeyer.

Monique L’huillier

Monique L’huillier presented a cream open-knit skirt with patch pockets and black floral buttons and a matching cropped sweater. Black boots, a crossbody bag and sunglasses completed the look.

Loveshackfancy

A long, slim skirt in a pink and white check with no waistband and a matching bustier top were designed by Rebecca Hessel Cohen for Loveshackfancy. Accessories included pink platform sandals.

Markarian

Designer Ali O’Neill showed a long, double-layered chiffon skirt in light blue and a cream-colored knit sweater with rhinestone embellishments. Strappy wedge sandals completed the look.

Max Mara

At Max Mara, designer Ian Griffiths created a mid-length black skirt with a white fitted jacket. Accessories included a black leather belt and black slingbacks.

Ferrari

Rocco Iannone presented a one-shoulder, long dress for Ferrari made from a brown and taupe checked cotton fabric with an ombré effect. Silver jewelry and blue sandals completed the look.

Victoria Beckham

At Victoria Beckham, a light brown knitted top with long sleeves and a hood was shown on the runway with a matching vest and a wool pencil skirt in the same color with a button fastening at the back. A natural suede tote bag, tan stockings and pumps completed the look.