The Tranoï fair, held during Fashion Week Paris, paves the way for a new understanding of the high-end fashion market – for both brands and buyers.
“In order to attract a larger number of international buyers, we decided to offer a supplementary offer to the so-called ‘designers’ in the narrower sense of the word,” Boris Provost explained to us when leaving the Tranoï trade fair. A daring bet – the history of Tranoï is long – but a bet welcomed by the entire sector. Thanks to this more global approach, it offers new economic opportunities to designers who want to break out of a niche market.
Creative brands on their way to enter a more global market
Exhibitors interviewed at their stands welcomed these efforts, which seemed to attract new buyers to the stands, but also returning ones who had been neglecting the fair a bit. “I lived in France for five years and I’m exhibiting in Paris for the first time,” Sonam Khetam explained to us. “We presented a silk loungewear collection. It has been colored with Ayurvedic plants, such as rose, which help the body to relax and keep the room temperature. There were buyers from Italy, Korea, Italy, Belgium, Egypt and also from the USA here at the stand. They appreciated the fact that we produce prêt-à-porter couture, with pieces costing between 200 and 1,000 euros and about 160 euros for luxury loungewear.”
Flora Sardalos, a designer with the eponymous brand who embodies the cool vibes of Cycladic summer in her fashion, had the same impression: “It’s the second time that I’m exhibiting at Tranoï and it’s always a nice experience. I met clients from last season and gained new ones like Vakko (Turkey), By Marie (France) and Mahat (Saudi Arabia) who work with famous names like Isabel Marant or Matthew Williamson.” This season she showed their collection in the new area ‘Resort’ (beachwear). With clothes that are made in Greece and retail for between 180 and 400 euros, she describes herself as a ‘chic resort’.
Tranoï: A lot of effort that seems to have paid off
How did the Tranoï manage this (re)ascension? In addition to this selection work, Tranoï sent his representative Marina Lyritzi (formerly showroom Florence Deschamps) to the buyers: “I introduced the buyers to new brands that could meet their tastes and requirements. I have traveled extensively and explained that we have a new way of choosing. We try to make a selection that satisfies as many people as possible. For this reason we have created different segmentations. The buyers welcome this development. They are happy to see that we have a new offer.”
Sina Chihi, manager of the boutique ‘Un monde à part’ from Nice, is an example of the success of the new fair. He is living proof of the need to renew the offer to adapt to the new realities. “I used to visit the Tranoi, but I haven’t come for a few years,” he told us. “I tended to visit the monobrand showrooms, but I want to break that habit and regain my freedom. Azzedine Alaia, you can’t take it away from me, I love it… But here at Tranoi I choose six pieces from one collection, five from another. This gives me the opportunity to show a wide range at a competitive price, even if it’s not really the price that interests me.” [Un Monde à part verkauft unter anderem Loewe und Balmain]. A collection must have enough character to stand out on the shelf. Here I have selected items from Maridruna, handmade knitwear from Serbia, Cristiano Marcheli, Positano Couture and True Royal.” Demonstrating his renewed vigor, he adds: “I want my customers to trust me when I’m offering them something. “
partnerships from all over the world
At €900 per square meter for a stand at Tranoï, it can be difficult for labels not owned by corporations or investment funds to fund their presence. Therefore, they have to resort to partnerships. “Of our 174 exhibitors, 84 percent are from abroad,” explains Boris Provost. “More than thirty percent are supported by foreign governments or private funding.”
The Korean designers who paraded under the pillars of the Brongniart Palace on Saturday are supported by the Seoul Metropolitan Government. “People appreciate Korea for its cinema, dance and food. Now it’s about promoting his fashion,” said Dane Kim, the show’s organizer. Many of the designers studied in Paris. You are ready to enter the fashion business. On the Tranoï they met the teams from Galeries Lafayette, La Samaritaine, Le Printemps as well as Harvey Nichols Hong Kong and Dubai.
The Italian region of Marche also finances 100 percent of the Italian brands present. Brazil supports the event with 30 percent. Finally, without the support of Canex, the Africans probably could not have come. It would have been a pity, because with their disruptive offer they enriched the Tranoi with a colorful scenography.
“This is my first time exhibiting here. The impression is positive as I have had very good feedback on my brand,” Judy Sanderson, a South African designer based in Portugal, told FashionUnited. It was rather small boutiques that were interested in my collection. I wrote down seven orders. Most bought five pieces from the collection with a minimum of ten pieces per color for a retail price of around 130 euros.
At this point it is impossible to know what the sales volume will be as the orders placed have yet to be confirmed. What is confirmed, however, is the return of a fair that combines avant-garde fashion shows and a marketplace.
This article was similarly published on FashionUnited.fr. Translation and editing: Barbara Russ