Noon the fourth day of Milan Fashion Week 2024 among today’s protagonists stand out the unshakable fashion duo, from Dolce&Gabbana to Jil Sander. Opens on the run Ferraricloses at sunset with its parade Bottega Veneta.
In the middle, a dive into the past of Ferragamothe collection between the lines of Missonithe university student of Elisabetta Franchi: here’s everything that happened on the catwalks of day 4 of MFW.
The fiery naturalness of Bottega Veneta
The beauty? A living flame. He seems to know it well Matthieu Blazycreative director of Bottega Veneta, which for the Autumn-Winter 2024/2025 fashion show looks to today with simplicity. The setting, the barren land of Southern Italy, photographed in the warm and soft light of the sunset, dotted with flowering glass cacti, handmade on the island of Murano. The stools this time are a special edition of the Tabouret Cabanon LC14 by Le Corbusier, in carbonized wood. And it is in this singular house on the prairie that a line that burns every excess comes to life.
The car coats stand out against the fiery background of the fashion show, the layering layers of shirts and turtlenecks are gracefully contrasted thanks to sophisticated color juxtapositions, the egg-shaped coats harmonize the figure, the collars of the tops and trench coats are cut into rings and envelop like cloaks. Interwoven buttons hold the midi dress together, and the classic Maison motif leaves room for the new fringed effect of wool and leather experimented in previous collections, in coats and skirts. The same translates into a new graffiti-like print pattern on the sculptural Corolla dresses.
The red leather trench coat from the Bottega Veneta FW2024/2025 fashion show (Photo: Spotlight Launchmetrics).
Among the hottest releases, the tie-dye effect flamenco shirt-skirt suits to be worn with square slingbacks, an earthy purple trench coat, the maxi shirt that becomes a jacket, the smoked effect leather trousers. In addition to macro bags, mini clutches also appear this time. A wardrobe that burns naturally.
Dolce&Gabbana, smoking kills
A classic, high-sounding, statuesque garment. A bit like the top models who interpret it on the catwalk to the tune of Murphy’s Lawfrom Naomi Campbell to Eva Herzigova to Marriacarla Boscano. The tuxedo is the protagonist of the show Dolce&Gabbana Autumn-Winter 2024/2025: the tuxedo suit with lapels, a synthesis of masculine and feminine, is reinterpreted in a thousand variations by the stylist duo. The jacket sits over exposed lace lingerie, is shortened if necessary to show the sarong skirt, turns into a waistcoat or blazer dress, and is dressed in feathers. The trousers with the high waist belt veer towards Bermuda shorts, becoming tight like a pair of leggings, micro like a culotte.
Naomi Campbell for Dolce&Gabbana FW24/25 (Photo: Spotlight Launchmetrics).
The recomposed exits they hit the mark most of all, thanks to refined velvet suits that are placed on transparent tops as well as on white shirts, and are worn with small berets and veils as in the origins. In fact, his first appearance dates back to October 1886, in the Tuxedo club of New Jersey. And since then it has never lost its charm, also thanks to its characteristic feature, total black – which, in fact, dominates the show. Smoking kills.
Ferragamo, inspiration from Greta Garbo
It is the queens of the androgynous look, such as Greta Garbo and Joan Crawford, who inspire Autumn-Winter 2024/2025 by Maximilian Davis. The designer explores the era of their successes, i Roaring Twenties, starting right from their free, captivating wardrobe. The rough cloth he is the protagonist not only of the hood Ferragamo, but also of men’s long jackets and coats, in a palette that ranges from olive to chocolate to red. The outerwear is placed on Charleston skirts characterized by long fringes, while on the feet the feathers dress boots and sandals, an alternative to the classic monk straps – the same happens in the bags sector, with the Hug Bag in deco version.
A knit look from Ferragamo FW24/25 (Photo: Spotlight Launchmetrics).
Women who once wore trousers today mostly wear midi dresses in lacquered organza and silk mini dresses, which appear on the catwalk together with enveloping twinsets, high-necked sweaters and soft pencil skirts. The pieces where they feel safe: and in fact the only tailored suits mimic the uniforms of the period, characterized by a utility touch. «I love starting from the richness of history and then distilling it and making it cleaner, more modern» explains Davis. And he succeeds, this time too.
Jil Sander, a question of tact
A sculptural and acid set, an original casting that ranges from Mariacarla Boscano to Kasia Smutniaka soundtrack that mixes different musical genres (signed Mk.gee). Once again Luke and Lucie Meier, the driving duo Jil Sander, demonstrates how the wardrobe is above all an evolution of the self. Here we find the classic stylistic features of the Maison, made unique for next season by new touches. The bow dresses and suits focus onquilted effect or they dress in bright saturated colors, embellished with necklaces of brilliant fringes. The mythical Cannolo is flanked by clutch like wigs that emerge from theatrical egg-shaped capes, and are worn like dresses over second-skin effect boots.
The fur is worked and made dynamic thanks to the use of new and rounded tones and processes, while the duster “crackles” thanks to the shiny leather effect crackle. A tactile and reassuring wardrobe, starting from the view: and despite the proliferation of quilt-effect exits, you don’t perceive any drowsiness, on the contrary. Luke and Lucie Meier are smarter than ever.
Bally, German romanticism
Simone Bellotti continues to explore the origins of the Maison. On his second try for Ballyin the rooms of the seventeenth-century Palazzo Serbelloni in the heart of Milan, is the figure of the German wayfarer – Der Wanderer – to inspire the stylist. A woman who goes in search of herself and her past, rather than towards a defined place. The tales of mermaids on the shores of the Engadine lakes, the Christmas Silvesterkläuse, the typical treicheln around the necks of cows are translated into forms rather than through slavish references. A thread with the origins is there, but you can’t see it: the winning formula found by the designer, which underpins the loden catwalk in fur-edged cloth, Alpine-style jacquard knitwear, bell-shaped skirts, straight corduroy trousers, saturated cotton shirts.
The German romanticism takes on more subversive implications than ever, with some punk releases surprising mixes of leather, classic studs and metal symbols in the shape of Appenzeller cheese, from the waisted skirt to the folkloristic vest up to the trunk bags and Mary Janes Glendale. The result, a sober wardrobe, but which does not give up the innate rhythmic touch of Swiss dressing.
From Ferrari to Missoni
Not just Bottega Veneta and Dolce&Gabbana. Among the other brands that took to the stage on the fourth day of MFW, the opening with Ferrariwhich runs thanks to a wardrobe that enhances the body, giving it light and energy: Rocco Iannone this time it contains the essence of the automotive in the cuts rather than in the shapes. Between the lines, Missoni: Filippo Grazioli returns to explore the original graphic motif of the Maison. While Elisabetta Franchi at Milan Fashion Week 2024 it focuses on college inspiration, with a fashion show, The Clubwhich is an homage to the classic tomboy look.
A look by Ermanno Scervino FW24/25 (Photo: Spotlight Launchmetrics).
While the 2024 fashion show of Ermanno Scervino bring one to the track Fashion Atlaseverything to browse, which ranges from classic lingerie to sheepskin, from men’s pieces in wool grisaille to silk slip dresses.
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