No.It is not always easy take care of your nailsoften even the simplest actions – from filing to choosing the right reconstruction treatment – can hide small pitfalls, aggravating problems such as flaking or fragility. Michela Mayknown on Instagram as @lacoach of the nails she is one of the most followed experts in nail care and reconstruction. THEgoddess of the “effect no effect” technique and celebrity manicurist, in his book “The Nail Coach” (released on July 19 and published by Rizzoli) he reveals all the tricks for beautiful hands.
Nail care: the basic steps to keep them beautiful
«More than steps, we should talk about precautions. First it is necessary understand the needs of our nails. For example, if they break or tend to flake off is recommended to take them short and with one nail shape anatomical: rounded and with rounded corners, so as to avoid getting hooked on clothes and hair “, begins to explain Michela May, that is The nail coach.
Michela May’s book, “The nail coach” published by Rizzoli, will be released on July 19
«Subsequently my advice is to apply hand cream twice a day and replace this step in the evening with cuticle oil or butter. This allows you to keep the hydrolipidic film of the skin healthy and at the same time the relationship between flexibility, hardness and firmness of the nail platethus contributing to its natural elasticity.
It is also very important wash your hands using mild detergents, preferably in mousse or cream, and warm water. These formulations allow not to affect the hyponicchio (the membrane under the nail). Its thinning in fact, it makes the nail more fragile and sensitive ».
Nails – the most common mistakes
«One of the most serious is that of clean under the nails using blunt or pointed objectssuch as: scissors, toothpicks, hard bristle brushes and scrub hard. These modalities ruin the hyponicchio, activating a sort of erosion principle of the membrane under the nail which is a sort of natural barrier against pathogenic micro organisms and germs.
Another mistake is that of “cut the nails very short (both hands and feet). The problem in this case is that you run the risk of making them incarnate. The right size requires at least half a millimeter of free board, both in the case of men and women ».
Finally, «a mistake I often see made is that of tear off the semi-permanent nail polish as soon as you notice a lift. Removing it like this is a lot risky, because they get ruined the most superficial layers of the nail plate and make the nails more brittle»Says the expert.
… And the false myths
«Surely the most famous” false myth “is that of nails that “breathe”. These are composed of horny lamellae, also called corneocytes, very rich in keratin and without a nucleus, their structure is therefore dead and it doesn’t need to stay free to feed and grow because regenerates itself through the blood vessels “.
Another very common misconception is that “nails need to rest. The basis on which to work it is constantly growing again and if it is treated with respect it will not be ruined. The treatments must be interrupted only in case of injuries, allergies (albeit rare), interventions and in case of medical advice “.
Finally, the latest false myth is that weak nails must remain natural. “Nothing could be more false: the gel was created precisely to help give more strength to the nail”.
File or nippers, the right method for shortening nails
“There is no right and wrong method: there is only one tool suitable for your nail type “.
For example, “for those that flake the clean cut is not recommended because it could increase the flaking itself increasing its fragility. In this case it would be better to use one glass filewhich is more delicate thanks to its grain is thinner ».
If, on the other hand, «the nail is healthy and strong, you can also use the nippers and then shape it with a cardboard file. The advice is always to use a 180 grip file onwards for natural and healthy nails“.
Acrylic, gel and semi-permanent: the differences and which technique to choose
“Let’s go from acrylic: and the first product introduced in the world of nail art to reconstruct the nails with a resin composed of a monomer and a polymer that does not need the UV lamp.
With a very rigid appearance, it does not break easily and is in fact suitable for whom suffer from severe nail biting or for nail art competitions to create extreme lengths and shapes ».
“The gel is the direct evolution of acrylic with the primary difference that in the hardening phase (or polymerization that occurs under UV rays) it remains in the liquid phase. This allows for greater workability, which is why it is considered the treatment par excellence to be done in the salon. It is suitable for all types of lengths, from short to medium-long ones ».
Finally «lo nail varnish semi-permanent it is to be considered in all respects as a product long lasting which remains shiny and it does not flake like normal nail polish, it can last more than 2 weeks, but it depends on the natural nail ».
«Unlike acrylic and gel, a special remover must be used to remove it. He comes recommended for those who do not have particular nail problems and to those used to it to wear classic nail polish but want a product that lasts longer and dries immediately », Michela May specifies.
Nail routine, beauty products for perfect nails and hands
As for the skincare routine, hands and nails also need beauty products and steps to stay healthy.
«Perhaps not everyone knows that the cosmetics used during face skincare can also be massaged on the hands. For example the eye contour can also be applied to the cuticles. Then you can use the hand cream and a specific cuticle oil, for example almond oil. In the evening instead we apply a richer cream and a butter to the cuticlesfor example those of shea and castor beans ».
If the nail is completely natural, «you can then proceed with filing once a week to fix the nail shape and apply a smoothing and opaque base with protective virtues ».
Never forget sunscreen and masks
“A beauty trick for the summer is to use thermal water also on the hands to soothe redness caused by the sun and prepare the skin for sun exposure, so as to stay hydrated. It is also fundamental remember to apply sunscreen to your hands as well to avoid burns and stains ».
Also, as for the face «never forget to do one from time to time specific masksuch as those in glove-shaped fabric, with hyaluronic acid, snail slime, argan oil and avocado inside “.
Nails: color and shape trends for summer 2022
«Personally I don’t like trends. You have to choose the right color and shape for the person and your personality. This year there is great attention to naturalness, which is declined according to personal taste and to one’s undertone ».
«We can therefore start from a trend idea and reinterpret it according to who we have in front of us. For the colors I recommend instead orange, green and brown»Concludes Michela May.
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