For the S/S23 men’s fashion season, the preppy look once again received a new reincarnation: less Ivy League, more ‘Sport & Street’. The color palette ranged from pale pastels at Rhude to neons at MSGM and burgundy and black at Dries Van Noten. Key cornerstones included cable-knit sweaters, Bermuda shorts, and college lettering. As with last season’s women’s collections, the tie made a comeback. Here are the ten best looks from Paris and Milan.
Amy
Alexandre Mattiussi showcased a mix of American preppy style and Parisian cool during Paris Fashion Week. One look, for example, consisted of a classic navy and white striped t-shirt and short white shorts under a varsity jacket with flap pockets. A baseball cap, socks and sandals completed the look.
kenzo
For his second collection for Kenzo, shown in Paris, Nigo said he used the concept of a ‘farewell ceremony’ as inspiration. It was inspired by one of Kenzo Takada’s shows from the 1980s, which was based on the idea of a school sports day. For Look 22 he presented a green, blue and yellow striped seersucker blazer with two buttons, yellow and red striped Bermuda shorts, different socks made of melange knit and white slippers.
MSGN
Massimo Giorgetti showed his MSGN collection in Milan. She also had preppy features: Look 11 consisted of a rugby shirt with bold pink and black block stripes embellished with an MSGN emblem. It was worn over a blue and white striped shirt and shorts, black socks and MSGM brand sneakers.
Thomas Browne
Shown during Paris Fashion Week, the catwalk show was full of iconic Thom Browne looks including tweed coats, blazers, trousers and long pleated skirts. Look 21 was layered and detailed: it consisted of a pastel colored tweed bouclé jacket with a red check lining and matching long shorts. He also combined a white shirt with a pink collar with a tie and red and white bouclé slippers and socks.
Dries Van Noten
Shown in Paris, the Dries Van Noten SS23 collection was an eclectic mix of styles: pinstripes with pink corsets, western shirts and cowboy boots, motocross looks, pajama looks and finally preppy styles. For Look 24, Van Noten featured a deep V-neck sweater with ribbed trims in burgundy and navy with burgundy pleated pants.
Junya Watanabe
Junya Watanabe’s Paris show evoked American pop art with quotes and artwork by Roy Lichtenstein, Andy Warhol, Jean Michel Basquiat and Keith Haring. For Look 4 he presented a utility jacket with an orange collar and a Campbell’s soup can tag along with khaki pants. A baseball cap in orange and burgundy red and white sneakers with thick soles were added as accessories.
Rhude
The preppy look was also used by Rhuigi Villaseñor, who showed his collection in Paris. One look consisted of dusty pink skinny jeans with a red and white striped shirt and pink and white sweater paired with white tassel loafers.
Moschino
As part of Milan Fashion Week, this was Jeremy Scott’s first all-menswear show since joining Moschino. Look 18 consisted of an oversized blue and white striped shirt with yellow stripes and matching shorts. He combined it with a tie, a black cardigan and motorcycle boots.
Hermes
Shown in Paris and designed by Véronique Nichanian, the Hermés collection featured softly shaped separates in bright colors. The Look 2 outfit consisted of an airy, collarless light pink shirt and khaki shorts under a white blouson jacket, which was combined with white open-toed sandals.
Paul & Joe
This was the second Paul & Joe men’s collection designed by Adrien Albou. Look 1 featured a turquoise knitted cardigan with embroidered floral garland trimmings over a striped shirt and khaki shorts, also florally embellished. The outfit was completed with blue socks and black penny loafers.
This article was previously published on FashionUnited.uk. Translation and editing: Barbara Russ