Martin Margiela: Personal archive items are going under the hammer

This summer, on July 9th at 2 p.m., a historic auction for the fashion world will take place in Paris. For the first time, Martin Margiela, founder of the eponymous fashion house, is working with auctioneers to organize the sale of his personal archives. This date already promises to be an event for the numerous collectors and enthusiasts.

The auction is organized by the Paris auction house Maurice Auction in collaboration with the London auction house Kerry Taylor Auctions. It includes more than 200 lots from designer Martin Margiela’s personal archives. The collection covers the period from 1984 to 2008. It ranges from his designs for the Canette d’Or in Antwerp to his departure from the House of Martin Margiela, supplemented by some newer pieces created during the pandemic.

‘Giving joy to several collectors and institutions’

The most remarkable thing about this auction is the designer’s direct involvement. It is the first time in his lifetime that a designer of this caliber has collaborated with an auction house to offer, sort and authenticate his own personal archives.

“After many years of transporting archives from one place to another and lending them out for exhibitions, I felt it was time to part with some of my fashion memories,” said Martin Margiela in the press release announcing the event. “After much consideration, it was the idea of ​​bringing joy to several collectors and institutions that finally led me to entrust it to the world.”

Intimate work relics

The meaning of the word ‘archive’ has been overused. It has evolved from a museum concept into a real fashion trend. Just think of the iconic Marilyn Monroe dress that Kim Kardashian wore at the 2022 MET Gala. However, the sale of Martin Margiela’s pieces gives this concept back its original depth.

Far from celebrity fetishism or appropriation for communication purposes, this event takes us back to the essence of the historical trace: the raw documentation of a creative process.

The pieces in the exhibition catalog include intimate work relics and objects that bear witness to the history of a house that has had a significant influence on the fashion industry. These include, for example, a workbook from 1987, when Martin Margiela was looking for a manufacturer in Italy, estimated at 5,000 to 8,000 euros. A white blouse worn by the founder and one of the company’s employees’ famous white cotton coats, estimated at 3,000 to 5,000 euros, will also be auctioned. Likewise Tabi Graffiti from 1991, whose value is estimated at 30,000 to 50,000 euros. Also notable is the sale of the designer’s personal telephone, which was painted over with Meudon white. This object, well-known among connoisseurs, is estimated at 3,000 to 5,000 euros.

Léa Bouchet’s Hermès wardrobe

The auction will also present around 60 outfits, bags, shoes and fashion accessories from the wardrobe of Léa Bouchet, Martin Margiela’s mother. The designer was very close to his mother, who supported him from an early age, and gave her numerous pieces that reflect his work at the fashion house Hermès between 1997 and 2003.

“My late mother’s Hermès clothing items, which are difficult to maintain in perfect condition, will also be presented,” explains Martin Margiela. “These creations from my time at the house of the same name from 1997 to 2003 require special care despite their very high quality of workmanship and materials.”

Among the objects signed by Hermès are shoes from 1989, about which he says: “For my first autumn/winter 1998-1999 collection, I focused on comfort. At that time, Pierre Hardy had designed a sneaker called ‘Quick’, which I incorporated into my silhouettes. But I also wanted a heeled version for a different walk. The idea was to design a pump that would capture the spirit of the Hermès sneaker. I chose crepe soles and a sturdy heel.”

The exhibition, designed like an unpacking

Before the auction, an exhibition organized by Bob Verhelst, a long-time friend of the designer, will immerse professionals and visitors in a scenography reminiscent of a small factory of the early 20th century. This approach allows a direct experience of the materiality and fragility of the objects, most of which have never been shown to the public.

Alex Baddeley, fashion specialist and auctioneer at Kerry Taylor Auctions, said: “This auction offers unprecedented access to the personal archives of a designer whose reputation is as enigmatic as it is profound. Margiela’s innovative creations and runway presentations changed the fashion landscape forever.”