At a time when the landscape of fashion eating is changing rapidly and losing many traditional formats in importance, Mandatory CPH wants to establish itself in response to the changed needs of the industry. The event launched in June sees itself as a more intimate, more cost -effective and more time -effective alternative to the big trade fairs. As such, it relies on quality instead of quantity – both for the exhibitors and the visitors: inside.
“The market was incredibly bulimic last year,” explains trade fair veteran and co-founder of Mandatory, Clara Leone, in an interview with fashionunited. Leone previously worked as a director of the Revolver fashion fair and headed it until her takeover by the competition fair CIFF in January 2023. There she worked there for another year and a half, but realized that the fair was not the right platform for her. Together with the former Ciff-Co director Mads Petersen, she then looked for new opportunities to design the exhibition landscape.
“It was time to realize a project that pursues a clear vision, even if it does not appeal to everyone. Buyer: Inside, retailers: inside and brands have neither a lot of time nor large budgets. So if you take the way to a trade fair, you should find exactly what you are looking for there. “
Concept store experience instead of classic fair
With a carefully curated selection of 200 brands, Mandatory therefore relies on a “concept store” atmosphere instead of usual variety of trade fairs-only from the organizers: Brands selected and invited inside take part. The design of the approximately 5,000 square meter hall with branded islands, which of course complement each other, creates an airy, relaxed environment-similar to the arrangement in modern retail concepts. Unlike many industry events that rely on continuous growth, Mandatory remains loyal to his philosophy and focuses on the quality of the contacts instead of pure visitors: Interior numbers, which are therefore not announced, says Leone.
It was Leone himself who and her team welcomed the visitors: in the inside when entering the former market hall. Names, admission ticket and Wristband were replaced in peace. Instead of going directly to the first brands, the guests were initially invited to get a coffee and start the day relaxed. However, the relaxed atmosphere was only partially an indication of what happened behind the scenes: While the guests took part in their first caffeine kick at 9 a.m., preparations for their first dates were already underway for the brands. The serenity already established at the entrance run through the entire days of the fair. The hustle and bustle or stress never came up. On the contrary: the further progress, the more inviting the atmosphere. Accompanied by jazzy, driving sounds, lively conversations mixed with the subtle fragrance of the candles of Studio Teket – a self -proclaimed “Niche Lifestyle Agency Concept” with Scandinavian roots, which was placed directly between the entrance and the lounge.
The premiere of the fair took place last summer, a first edition that was set up within a few weeks. Even then, the organizers were aware that not everything would be perfect – mistakes would be made, findings were gained and adjustments were made. The most striking change since then concerns timing. Mandatory had originally loosened from the traditional fashion mink calendar, the buyer: leading to Copenhagen inside at the beginning of August. Instead of taking over the schedule and ciffer specified by the Copenhagen Fashion Week and Ciff, Mandatory rely on an earlier date at the end of June.
The idea behind it: Buyers: Inside, budgets should be able to use that are often exhausted by August. However, this approach was revised for the January edition. The fair took place parallel to the Copenhagen Fashion Week and Ciff. “We want to support the Copenhagen Fashion Week,” Leone explains the decision. “As long as it makes sense and business opportunities for the brands, we will orientate ourselves to maximize their business opportunities.”
It remains to be seen whether the fair will rely on the Juni date again in summer. However, some of the brands found at the mandatory would welcome an alignment to Ciff, as this would optimize travel expenses and times. For a new trade fair like Mandatory, it can also be an advantage to state in parallel to an established event like CIFF to attract visitors: to put on the inside and to stimulate the area in the Copenhagen Meatpacking District. This opinion also shares Sebastian Ross, Head of Sales International at Drykorn, who has observed an increased visitor: internal frequency. Many buyers: After your visit to Ciff, there would still be time for a detour at Mandatory.
Different markets, different strategies
High visitors: In the end, however, the interior number and a lot of walk -in customers do not seem to be the goal of Mandatory CPH. The fair – which was roughly divided into menswear and possessions, with each category taking its own side of the exhibition site – is largely based on previously agreed appointments. One aspect that can already be seen on your website where retailers can network in advance with the brands represented. However, most brands continue to contact the buyers themselves: inside, with whom they want to do business at the fair, as Sofie Bertelsen Raven, fire and marketing manager at Palmes, explained. “We have contacted our existing Danish customers: inside and potential new ones and then appointed appointments with you. We did the work 100 percent. “
The menswear label had only returned from Paris the day before, where most of their international appointments take place. Mandatory CPH is therefore a moment for you to “meet new people, new people: to meet and see where it leads us,” said Bertelsen Raven. While the fair was relaxed or, as it admitted a moment later, the buyer came, buyers came by in the inside to make a first selection for the order. “Now we are waiting for you to finalize your orders. It’s a little like a game of patience. “
It is the second participation in Mandatory for the brand after it has switched from the ciff to a smaller alternative in summer. And although the hall did not seem busy on Wednesday morning, Raven sees a significant improvement among visitors: interior numbers – and in business – compared to the previous edition. With concrete assessments of the business, however, the Sales Manager is holding back, a trend that is reflected at the entire fair. The good mood factor and the positive exchange seem to have a greater status here, at least superficial.
At Drykorn, the fair primarily serves as an opportunity to show presence. The brand, which is located with a large stand in the Womenswear, but had both the women’s and men’s collection in her luggage, used the fair as the basis for “problem solving” before retailers: inside are invited to their own showroom. The shops are then completed there. A similar view also shares the Danish brand Soulland, which now presents itself on Mandatory after a week full of order dates in Paris before the buyers come to the brand’s showroom in the coming week. The presence at the fair enables the brand to prepare buyers: to prepare for their order inside, even if some are already giving up orders on site – albeit rarely.
The Dutch Sportswear brand Pal Sporting Goods in turn represents a attitude similar to Palmes. “It is our second season at Mandatory, we were already there at the first spring/summer edition, and it went really well,” says Yasmina Azhoum, creative producer Sales, to fashionunited. Contemporaries such as Dickies, Filson and Blundstone present themselves in the immediate vicinity of the Sportswear label at the fair. All of the brands with which the label could be found at least in a well -stocked department store at least on the same floor. “There are many great brands here, the selection suits us very well – we looked for something like that,” said Azhoum. One aspect that was reflected at almost the entire fair – because many brands moved over a wavelength. In addition to neutral tones, earthy colors shaped the picture: from rust red to deep caramel to forest green. Classics such as white and black of course remained present, often supplemented by targeted accents in red and cobalt blue.
The brand originally found its way to the fair through a long -term friendship between its founder and the organizer: inside, but the return to the smaller fair now seems to be done out of conviction. This time, the focus of Pal Sporting Goods is not necessarily on writing as many orders as possible, but rather to network with their partners: inside, after taking sales for Scandinavia, Germany and Great Britain back in their own hands. “If buyers want to make a selection inside, we encourage you to do so and then send you a look book and a line sheet. However, our main focus is on being present to get to know the Scandinavian market and retailers: to get to know the inside better and hopefully continue to expand in the long term. ”
Measuring at home like the Amsterdam fashion factory or even neighboring events in Germany would not match the brand, explains Azhoum, which is why a showroom in Paris remains the only further event in the brand’s calendar. A tactic that can be found on Mandatory with many brands. According to the creative producer, Paris is the place where the brand hits its international customers: from the inside – from French to Dutch to Asian and British – while the focus at Mandatory is mainly on the Scandinavian market. Something that Leone is not only aware of, but what is actively promoting it.
“We focus on the local market: Sweden, Norway, Denmark,” she says. “We always had international ambitions and are very good at bringing international visitors: here. But at its core it is and remains a local trade fair. ”Nevertheless, international buyers were not only encouraged to participate – for them, registration and admission are free – but some selected, including Slam Jam, Rinascent and PrintemPs.
All-round carefree package and ‘family reunion’
The buyer: Inner program, however, is not the only all-round carefree package that Mandatory offers. “We wanted to make sure that everyone can concentrate on the bottom of their being here, so when building the fair we made sure that food, drinks and coffee are provided. We do not want our exhibitors to have to worry about anything inside or visitors, “says Leone.
This idea was implemented in the form of a large, oval tent-like structure in the middle of the exhibition center, which housed an omelette station, free snacks, drinks and coffee as well as some sofas and tables for networking. And that was exactly what happened, because in some cases, even after the morning coffee, the stands and gears still seemed almost empty compared to the lively and sociable atmosphere on the catering area.
Networking may not be the main goal of Mandatory, but there are numerous opportunities for buyers between the appointments: inside and branded representatives – and these are used lively. This underlines a statement that Leone had previously made. A wording that is often tried in the fashion and creative industry, but in this case seems amazingly apt: “We have been in the industry for almost two decades and have always had a close personal bond with the brands that we almost all look at close friends. And we need exactly these strong personal relationships, especially if the economic situation and forecasts are difficult. Then everything is trust and loyalty. “