The Design Museum has unveiled the first-ever Nigo retrospective. The visionary Japanese designer and creative director, Tomoaki Nagao, is portrayed in it. The exhibition traces his extensive career, from his beginnings in Harajuku to the founding of A Bathing Ape to his current role as artistic director of the fashion house Kenzo, part of the French luxury group LVMH.
The exhibition ‘Nigo: From Japan With Love’ runs from May 1st to October 4th. It celebrates Nigo’s career, his inspirations and influences. More than 700 objects from three decades of his work are on display. These include 600 pieces from Nigo’s personal archive. These range from vintage baseball caps and varsity jackets that illustrate his fascination with ‘Americana’ to pieces that have shaped his craft and design approach.
Esme Hawes, co-curator of the exhibition, said in a statement: “For the first time, Nigo has given us unprecedented access to his extensive and fascinating archive. Nigo has been an avid collector since his youth. He has developed his passion for collecting from a hobby into a lifelong passion.”
“His collection serves as a living toolbox from which he draws inspiration. He often samples from these pieces to create his own designs. The deliberately selected, personally meaningful and often surprising pieces in the exhibition not only trace Nigo’s extensive and diverse career. They also showcase his inspirations, passions and influences.”
Insights into the exhibition ‘Nigo: From Japan With Love’
The exhibition, divided into four categories, begins with a reconstruction of Nigo’s teenage room in Maebashi from the 1980s. This part has the motto ‘The Future is the Past’. He shows collected and preserved objects from his youth that shaped his creative influences. Highlights include treasured figures and toys such as Donald Duck, Felix the Cat and Star Wars characters. Also on display are Japanese toys, music and magazines from the period, as well as Americana fashion. Examples include Levi’s denim jackets from the 1950s and statement jeans. This mix of cultures continues to inspire the creative director today.
The second section, ‘Evolution’, highlights Nigo’s early career. He starts with his first business ‘Nowhere’, which he founded in 1993 together with fashion designer Jun Takahashi. The shop was part of the ‘Ura-Hara’ scene, which was centered in the alleys of Harajuku, Tokyo. That same year, he also founded his own clothing label, A Bathing Ape, often abbreviated as BAPE. This section features early design drawings from Nigo’s time at fashion college as well as rare BAPE garments from the early days. His preference for innovative packaging is also discussed, such as T-shirt packaging that looks like spray cans. Collaborations with Kaws, Mac, Pepsi, Disney and Nintendo, which ushered in a new era of collecting and hype culture, are also featured.
This section also shows how the vintage Americana fashions he collected during his youth influenced the pieces he designed. Examples include the ‘Yokosuka Jumper’ souvenir jacket, a varsity-style stadium jacket and denim pieces. It also explores the design perspective he brings to his role as Kenzo’s artistic director. He integrates elements from the house’s archive into his contemporary designs to create a fresh yet nostalgic identity. Several runway looks are on display, as is the royal blue suit and cape that Kid Cudi wore to the 2022 Met Gala.
This leads into ‘The Nigo Effect’, which explores how he became a sought-after trendsetter for fashion, music and design brands. The section highlights collaborations with French luxury fashion house Louis Vuitton. There he worked with numerous creative directors, including Marc Jacobs, Pharrell Williams and Virgil Abloh. His ongoing partnership with US sportswear retailer Nike is also highlighted. These include limited-edition T-shirts, a signature varsity-style jacket with the Nigo x Nike Swoosh emblem and sealed 2024 APE Force sneakers.
The exhibition closes with 25 handmade ceramics by Nigo. These are presented in a life-size glass teahouse that Nigo designed specifically for the Design Museum in collaboration with Not A Hotel. The ‘New Traditions’ section explores Nigo’s personal engagement with Japanese crafts and rituals. He also highlights his new creative practices in traditional techniques, his training as a tea ceremony master, and making pottery in his Tokyo studio.
Tim Marlow, Director and Chief Executive Officer (CEO) of the Design Museum, added: “Nigo’s contributions to today’s fashion industry are very significant and under-researched. He has helped reshape the landscape of brand collaborations and further blur the lines between streetwear and luxury.”
“The Design Museum is pleased to present the first global retrospective of his extraordinary career and show the influence of a Japanese pioneer on global fashion culture.”
To accompany the exhibition, Nigo’s long-standing partner Nike has opened a pop-up at its store on London’s High Street Kensington. The exclusive collection ‘Nike x Nigo x the Design Museum’ is offered there. It includes sweaters, caps and t-shirts with the signature Nigo x Nike Swoosh logo. The line will be available throughout the duration of the exhibition. Further drops are planned for July 1st and August 1st.
Additionally, the ‘Nike x Nigo LO2 Air Force 1’ and apparel collection will launch exclusively at the Design Museum in London on May 1st. A wider launch will follow on May 2nd on humanmade.jp and in Undercover stores.
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