Studies from the Dutch television program Radar show that large fashion chains such as H&M, Primark, Zara and C&A fail with their clothing collection programs. Instead of recycling them, the garments collected are often exported to developing countries and often disposed of there unusable. MEP Lara Wolters asked questions about these practices and a possible greenwashing of the companies involved.
In June 2024, Radar released twelve clothing on various fashion chains, including H&M, Primark and C&A. The journey of clothing was followed by Air Tags, small search equipment. According to the Radar, the twelve clothes covered a distance of around 84,000 kilometers, which corresponds to the double earth scope. Only two items of clothing landed in a second-hand shop in the Netherlands and only a small percentage was actually recycled. The majority landed in developing countries, where it was often unusable or disposed of, which led to considerable environmental damage. Several countries, including the East African Uganda, are working on an import ban on second-hand clothing, since this not only damages the environment but also the local economy.
Following the results of the Radar report, the MEP Lara Wolters (Groenlink-PVDA) asked questions about compliance with the new European waste directive in the European Parliament. She would like to know whether the European Commission sees Greenwashing in it and what measures may be taken against the companies involved. Wolters explained her decision to ask these questions yesterday on Monday evening on Radar (NPO 2).
Reactions from H&M, Primark and C&A
The fashion chains involved reacted to Radar’s findings on how you can read on the website of the television program. H&M admitted that there were still major challenges in textile recycling. The fashion company attaches importance to working with partner companies to develop better recycling solutions. In addition, H&M stated that the company only exports its clothing into markets in which there is a demand for second-hand clothing.
Primark emphasized that an investigation of the matter was underway. The chain works with its recycling partner Yellow Octopus to improve the situation. The retailer stated that he complies with the EPR regulations in different countries, including the Netherlands.
C&A stated that the company fully comply with EPR regulations in the Netherlands and other European countries. In 2023, C&A collected around 1,000 tons of textiles, 72 percent of which were reused and 22 percent recycled. C&A underlines his collaboration with Texaid, a German-Swiss specialist for circulatory services for the fashion and textile industry.
Clothing travels thousands of kilometers without recycling: European legislation under pressure
The Netherlands are the second European country with an extended manufacturer’s responsibility for textiles (EPR Textiles). This legislation obliges manufacturers and importers: inside of textile products to take responsibility for the disposal of their products at the end of their lifespan. The aim is to improve the collection, reuse and recycling of discarded textile products and thus contribute to a circular economy. This policy is intended to help reduce textile waste, but the question remains whether it will actually put an end to “waste colonialism”.
According to the Clean Clothes Campaign, textile drop is one of the fastest growing waste flows worldwide. Exports of used clothing from the EU have tripled in the past two decades. Every year, millions of tons of it are shipped to Africa and Asia and often end up in informal landfolter or markets.