Dana Mortada, a Lebanese-American designer based in Los Angeles, California, is the driving force behind Dāl the Label. With its philosophy of capsule wear and slow-batch production, Mortada’s luxury womenswear brand aims to combine its own ecological values with its passion for fashion.
The label Dāl may not even be a year old, but they have already launched their own capsule collection and established their local and online presence. The signature neutral, modern style that elevates everyday attire is one of Dāl the Label’s strengths, while the circular economy philosophy and use of sustainable fabrics are two other pillars of the brand.
The origins of the brand
Mortada’s path to her brand has already been paved by a string of industry successes. Mortada managed to break into the fashion world in the Middle East, where she started her own shoe brand and worked at Marie Claire Arabia. But she always had the founding of Dāl in mind.
Already during the pandemic and her pregnancy, Mortada had the vision to design a wardrobe that suits modern women who are mothers, creative and career-oriented like herself. “I want these women to feel good and feel like they can conquer the world in our pieces,” says the designer.
As much as Dāl the Label is a passion project inspired by their ethics, it is also a tribute to their heritage. “I love my culture and I love Lebanon very much. It’s my home,” says Mortada. That is why Dāl the Label merges the culture of Lebanon with the history of French colonialism, which is always noticeable there. This creates a very unique signature of European tailoring and the craftsmanship of the Middle East.
Aesthetically, the different influences are reflected in the classic silhouettes of the pieces and in the always covering fit. The emphasis is on materiality and texture, according to Mortada: “At the end of the day, it’s about comfort, that was the most important word on my mood board.”
The designer’s perspective
From oversized blazers to silk dresses, Dāl the Label’s first capsule collection offers garments meant to be worn over and over again, “without being boring,” as the designer puts it. The concept of a small series capsule model came to Mortada after years of working with fashion brands that heavily embraced fast fashion. She could not reconcile such production with her personal ideas of responsible production and an overall slower approach to fashion.
The first step was research into manufacturing in California, where Mortada discovered the “rabbit hole of sustainable fabrics”, i.e. went from the hundredth to the thousandth. Some of the fabrics she ended up choosing are local organic cotton, untreated flax linen and tencel, which is often used for linings.
Mortada sources these fabrics from a number of small factories and studios in Southern California. Her organic cotton pieces come from cotton processed in Los Angeles. Mortada is still looking for more sustainable fabrics produced in the city.
The idea of circular economy is manifested in the approach of Dāl the Label not only in practice, but also in the “education” of the clientele. Mortada’s attitude towards personal perspective is an integral part of the brand. All in all, according to Mortada, “we don’t want you to buy more than you should.”
Responsible production
Mortada works with garment workers in Los Angeles’ Downtown Arts District, a well-known hotspot of garment production – and the exploitation of workers.
A recent US Department of Labor report revealed that many American garment workers are being paid as little as $1.58 an hour, with Los Angeles, the nation’s leading manufacturing hub, at the epicenter of the phenomenon.
Mortada’s close proximity to this scene has taught her to be vigilant when looking for factories to work with. “As much as you try to do your own research and get in touch with the factory management, there is always something that is being kept secret,” says Mortada. “I’m very keen on meeting with the producers, asking them who they’re working with and gathering all that information, and [wenn] then you find out there’s a problem you didn’t know about… it hits you like a slap in the face.”
Since Mortada only makes ten of a product at a time, it was initially very difficult to find the right factories to work with, as they often required high production volumes.
Mortada also intends to introduce a pre-order system that would not meet the needs of most factories in the region. Navigating this precarious environment has presented challenges, but the designer has found her way. “Fortunately, we work with very select studios. We work with small production teams and do not mass produce,” says Mortada.
growth and business
Initially, Mortada works with wholesalers and a few selected showrooms that can support their slow fashion approach. “I’m not required to produce 20 or 60 tracks every season,” she says.
Similar to factory minimums, many wholesalers require a brand to commit to at least five collections a year. Mortada’s showroom stands out from the rest and not only allows her to work in small capsules but also to replicate models. The designer is also noting a shift where more showrooms are embracing brands like hers; timeless models can be ordered again and again, and it doesn’t always have to be a completely new collection.
Another benefit of working with capsules? Less excess production. “If it’s sold out we can produce to pre-order and that’s it. It’s a simple math.” That way, Mortada can manage the surplus and doesn’t have to rely on rebates to get rid of inventory, which she says “dilutes the concept.”
“It’s really expensive to make a garment, especially if you’re a small brand and if you’re local. The price of working with a range of natural fabrics and fibers and the high cost of production has resulted in a luxurious price level that Mortada stands by. Reflecting the ethos of high quality and high ethics, the price level ranges from $175 to $700
For Mortada, the key to success is finding an audience that understands what goes into price, from a value-based perspective, and continuing to be transparent about the costs of green choices. “It was difficult for me to figure out if people would care about the brand, but I was happy to find a community that really appreciates what we do.”
The future of Dāl the Label
Even though Dāl is now successfully launched, Mortada is still working things off her to-do list. 2023 will see more mini drops throughout the year, new colours, updated essentials in new textiles and another capsule collection for fall.
Dāl the Label still operates exclusively online, but aims to expand its local retail presence by partnering with small, sustainability-focused boutiques and accepting orders from specialty retailers. Locality remains the be-all and end-all, because Mortada is still looking for new sources of material in her area: “I want to support the place where I live, no matter what.”
To honor her international roots even more, she also looks for ways to incorporate Lebanese craftsmanship, be it through a custom textile print, imported goods or collaborations with designers.
Since launch, her revenue growth hasn’t hit peaks, which Mortada attributes to her focus on recognition. “When you build something, it’s all about brand awareness. It’s not just about turnover and sales. That is the first focus: the community.”
She also benefits from a strong awareness of what her brand is doing right. “We haven’t been on the market a year, but we know what people want: the blazer, the suit, our organic cotton pieces and bodysuits. Now we know where we want to go and our future designs are going in that direction.”
As part of further eco-conscious initiatives, Mortada also intends to launch a smaller collection using surplus fabrics from previous collections. She is looking for new ways to make her brand even more sustainable for herself and her customers. “It’s a lifestyle brand. Community is very important to Dāl, this is our main message. It’s not just about the clothes, it’s also about being a part of something.”
This article was published on FashionUnited.com. Translation and editing: Barbara Russ