Berlin finally seems to have fought its way in the narrow calendar of international fashion weeks. In addition to editors of trendy fashion magazines such as Dazed Korea, Hypebeast and ID, Buyer from London and Paris also praised the collections.
They accepted the invitation of the Fashion Council Germany industry association, co -organizer of Berlin Fashion Week (BFW). But what drives the busy buyers: inside, traveling to the German capital and what impression do you take? The Paris dealer Elevastor as well as the London stores Machine-A and Alta Store give an insight.
Berlin: Big stage for small brands
With its brand mix, the Berlin Fashion Week seems to have left a positive impression with its guests and especially surprised the one who participated for the first time. The strictly clocked, but still clear program of the fashion week gives the Buyern enough time to deal with the various brands, shows Stavros Karelis. Berlin is a good place to “discover something new and fresh that is not really available in other places,” says the Machine-A founder, who became known for aspiring talents with his concept store and established itself as an established London address . Luxury brands like Jil Sander are now part of the range as well as high-end streetwear by Martine Rose and experimental brands such as Kiko Kostadinov.
The young store concept Alta is also at home in the neighborhood of Machine-A in the lively district of Soho. Since 2021, the five independent designers behind the store not only show their own creations, but also monthly new talents with unique pieces in the areas of accessories and experimental Womenswear.
Timna Weber is one of the Alta co-founders. She is happy about the program in Berlin: “The BFW creates a balance between established and aspiring brands. It ensures that smaller brands become visible that would otherwise have been overlooked at the event of a busy shows such as in Paris or London, ”she summarizes. “Here you have the feeling that the future unfolds. I can’t wait to see where these designers will go to: “
Brands such as GmbH and Marie Lueder, who are among the big ones in Berlin, simply get more attention in the German capital. Both also show their collections in fashion metropolises such as Paris and London. There you have to assert yourself in addition to fashion houses such as Burberry, Louis Vuitton and Co. to be in the spotlight.
In Berlin they are among the highlights of the buyer and are also on the order note at Karelis. He had previously in the range and is now looking forward to a new collaboration. At Machine-A, the Berlin brand Ottolinger and the Herzogenaurach sporting goods Adidas and Puma are currently represented as collaborators for song for the mute or Coperni.
Meanwhile, Weber has a look at Lueder. She also thinks that Lou de Bètoly and Andrej Gronau would fit well in the Alta store range. The store relies on a mix of edginess, fineness, craft, conscious design and playfulness. Precisely because Weber grew up in Austria, the buyer is always looking for emerging German -language brands. At the moment you are already conducting the German jewelry brand Mussels and Muscles as well as the Austrian brands not Yet Fyi, Güç, Rendl and Timna Weber, the label of the same name from the store co-founder. In addition, products from the Austrian Womenswear brand Christina Seewald are also to be added to the range promptly.
Berlin’s brands in change
In addition to the well -known names, local heroes also delighted in Berlin: inside like Sia Arnika, Richert Beil and Brand. Particularly recurring guests such as Karelis, who was already in Berlin for SS25, are happy about the development that these emerging brands live through.
But not only the brands, but also the fashion week as a whole develops positively. Mahana Walker was the last time three years ago and felt a significant change. “It has improved in many ways,” summarizes the Creative and Commercial Executive from Elevastor. The hybrid Parisian Concept Store relies on brands such as Avavav, Collina Strada and Ottolinger, which make gene cocks beat faster and do not pull gender boundaries. The aspiring Austrian designer Florentina Leitner is also part of the range.
Walker also perceived the development of the talents and a great interest of people with various backgrounds. Walker was particularly “positively surprised” by Haderlump. In an S-Bahn depot, the brand showed a collection full of asymmetrical cuts and new silhouettes that deal with travelers of another time.
However, she lacked a certain variety in the design and storytelling of the brands, at least when it comes to “the essence of the city”. “The Berlin scene has a lot to express, but it feels like telling stories is suppressed a bit.”
However, not everyone was of this opinion. Weber in particular praised the “great locations”, the community idea and the connection to the city, which she perceived in an old Berlin ballroom at the French woman Lou de Bètoly. So it has rediscovered the slightly run -down room and crumbling walls in the fabric manipulations of the pieces.
“You can feel the unique DNA of Berlin on every show and see the story and architecture that is reflected in the collections. Due to the good exploitation of the many space in the city, every place looked powerful, massive and unmistakable. ”
Fashionunited was invited to Berlin by the FCG.