Unless you’re living cut off from the world, you’ve surely noticed the rise of a not-quite-new breed of influencer breaking into the world of western luxury fashion. While the stars of “Hallyu” or “Korean Wave” – terms that refer to the rising popularity of South Korean popular culture – have already become regulars at the fashion shows, their presence last season was amplified by their lively attendance at the Parisian and Milan Fashion Weeks cemented.
In particular, performances by K-Pop artists – a popular South Korean music genre that has taken over the world – generated a lot of buzz on social media and elsewhere, as many of these celebrities rarely appear at such public events. Commonly referred to as “idols,” these stars conquer the fashion world with their huge and often powerful fan bases. Their great appeal was particularly evident at the entrance to each of the fashion shows they attended: the streets were filled with screaming fans who flocked to even catch a glimpse of their favorite star.
Members of the Grammy-nominated group BTS were also among the visitors to the FW23 shows in Paris. J-Hope and Jimin appeared at Dior’s fashion show, the former as the new Louis Vuitton ambassador and the latter as Dior’s representative, while Suga attended Valentino’s show after being named the brand’s global ambassador. Other attendees included Blackpink’s Jisoo, who attended Christian Dior’s SS23 Haute Couture show, Bigbang’s G-Dragon, who attended Chanel’s Haute Couture show, and Saint Laurent’s NCT Ten menswear show, Jeonghan from Seventeen and Lee Seung-joo, aka Løren.
The success of Hallyu (“Korean Wave”) is also reflected in the popularity of Netflix’s “Squid Game,” which became – and still is – the highest-grossing show on the streaming platform in 2021. Korean dramas – aptly called K-dramas – are also on the rise, with many of their own stars thrust into the global spotlight. Hallyu’s influence on the fashion industry is now so influential that it has become a dedicated research topic for Fashion Snoops platform, which deals with trend forecasting and consumer insights. Nico Gavino, the company’s cultural strategist, has taken on the topic, examining the phenomenon from its inception to its potential future impact. Speaking to FashionUnited, Gavino shared insights into his previous research, in which he delved deeply into the influence and power of both the stars themselves and their fanbase.
The Rise of Korean Culture
So where does this fascination with Korean culture come from? For the viewers, the Hallyu boom has apparently suddenly arrived in the western public. However, that is by no means the case. The once war-torn country has emerged from economic turmoil with regimes that have spurred modernization and industrialization, with a particular focus on cultural production and information technology. “South Korea’s growing influence on Western culture is no coincidence,” Gavino said. “For several decades, expanding its global influence through cultural institutions has been a priority for South Korea.”
Her influence was amplified by the popularity of social media, which Gavino says “facilitated her meteoric rise.” Through these platforms, a global audience has been exposed to the various forms of Hallyu, from K-Dramas on Netflix to K-Pop stars on Instagram. While these stars have undeniable influence and fan bases in the country itself and in other Southeast Asian countries such as the Philippines, Malaysia, Indonesia and Thailand, there are already early signs of their importance in the West, particularly in the entertainment industry. BTS tied with One Direction as the no won the Best Picture award at the 2020 Academy Awards, catapulting the director and actors to international fame.
In order to be known in this world, many of these personalities, especially from K-Pop, were nurtured from an early age with the goal of becoming “the best of the best.” Entertainment agencies like SM Entertainment and HYBE, the company behind BTS, recruit potential talent as young as 11 and groom them into boy or girl group members hoping to win the hearts of fans worldwide. The few successful ones who make it often have a huge following that adores them and follows their every move. While regularly and often unfairly considered hysterical, these groups are also known to use their power for good, making sizeable donations to charities on behalf of their idol or influencing online movements in support of other good causes.
The power of the fans
And her power has not gone unnoticed. In recent years, many luxury brands have been quick to enlist various K-Stars as their ambassadors to target this often young and influential audience. Luxury jeweler Tiffany & Co. named Blackpink’s Rosé and BTS’ Jimin as its Ambassadors; Burberry selected three members of the newly formed group NewJeans; BigBang’s Taeyang was announced as an ambassador for Givenchy and Chinese-born K-pop star Jackson Wang joined Louis Vuitton. In the world of K-Dramas, Song Hye-kyo represents Fendi, Lee Min-ho is an ambassador for Louis Vuitton, and Ji Chang-wook has been chosen as the first Korean global model for Calvin Klein. But how do these people contribute to attracting customers?
“The consumer base that Korean celebrity brands can reach is twofold,” Gavino said. For one, South Korean consumers have recently been cited as the largest luxury consumers in the world, with the segment growing rapidly in the country and spending power continuing to rise along with a penchant for luxury brands. Today, Hallyu consumers worldwide are a very diverse group with a wide range of demographics that are not limited to any particular generation. While older fans are often able to purchase items worn by their favorite idol, Gavino noted, “For the young Hallyu fans who may not yet have the purchasing power to become luxury customers, it sends a signal that when they see their idols front row at a catwalk presentation or when they see the actors wearing pieces from their favorite K-drama, and that sparks interest in the brand. There’s a certain trust and a certain longing that binds the relationship between superfans and celebrities, and that’s especially strong when it comes to Korean stars.”
To get an idea of this influence, another member of BTS can serve as an example: Jungkook, who has not yet signed a contract with any brand. The youngest of the group and the voice behind the FIFA 2022 World Cup song “Dreamers” has been dubbed the “Sold Out King” by fans due to his unplanned power to sell out products he uses, wears and consumes. In the past he has worn items from brands such as Louis Vuitton, Prada and Balenciaga, with many of these pieces quickly disappearing from the shelves – sometimes within minutes of his appearance – despite prices exceeding $1,500. His influence has fans speculating which brand, if any, will try to enlist the singer as an ambassador, much like many of his bandmates.
“Many luxury brands have their eye on the Asian market, so this strategy is partly aimed at catching the attention of consumers in the region. But it’s not just that. Pop culture is becoming more global, and Korean celebrities are the superstars of a new generation. When luxury brands collaborate with South Korean idols and actors, they not only appeal to South Korean consumers, but also to Hallyu fans in all parts of the world,” adds Gavino.
What does the future hold for Hallyu?
It’s this factor that Gavino believes will be critical to Hallyu’s longevity as pop culture becomes increasingly decentralized thanks to the internet. “For over 20 years, Korean media has gradually made its way from the niches of the internet to the global mainstream. I don’t see the Korean Wave as a fad, but as a development of pop culture and the media landscape. South Korea’s entry into the limelight is one of many signals that pop culture is no longer centralized. While today’s fashion trends often move at breakneck speed, cultural trends are not so fast-moving. They often have greater longevity and continue to evolve rather than die out entirely,” Gavino explains.
The trend of K-pop stars becoming ambassadors for luxury giants may not slow down anytime soon, but the Hallyu influence also has the potential to spill over into the broader fashion industry. Gavino believes this could happen through increased dialogue between South Korea and the West, potentially leading to more Korean design influence in luxury fashion. Much like the K-Beauty movement – a trend revolving around Korean beauty brands that took off globally in 2011 and is estimated to be worth US$21.8 billion by 2026 – Gavino believes the Korean aesthetic is spreading into others as well forms of fashion, art and design could take hold, not only in terms of consumer tastes but also the increasing popularity of South Korean brands.
So Hallyu is clearly something that shouldn’t be ignored. Its undeniable influence is just beginning, and the current rapid growth leaves room for unexplored developments that can be defined by the brands themselves. “I don’t think brands should wait until these stars are just as influential in the west to pay attention to them. It is important to nurture the relationship with global Hallyu consumers early on. Future consumers come from a generation that grew up with K-pop at the top of the charts and K-dramas on the front pages of their favorite streaming services,” concludes Gavino.
This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.uk. Edited and translated by Simone Preuss.