The Swedish fashion group H&M is facing renewed calls for a ban on mohair. The reason for this is a new study on farms that are certified according to the Responsible Mohair Standard (RMS). This investigation is said to have uncovered evidence of animal cruelty.
The animal protection organization People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) has submitted a shareholder proposal to H&M. It calls on the retailer to reintroduce a ban on the material. This policy was implemented in 2018 but repealed in 2020.
H&M lifted mohair ban in 2020
The animal rights group said it has increased pressure following a “damaging” new investigation into its Asian branch. The investigation concerned RMS certified farms. This also included a location that supplies the South African agricultural company BKB Ltd., a partner of H&M.
According to PETA Asia, the investigation uncovered evidence of animal cruelty to goats shorn for the raw material. The organization described allegations that workers beat and, in some cases, injured the animals.
As a result, PETA is increasing the pressure on H&M. The company originally introduced a mohair ban in 2018 following an earlier PETA revelation about South African farms.
The retailer reintroduced the material into its production in 2020. This was done under the RMS, a certification from Textile Exchange. The standard is intended to verify and label mohair produced on farms that respect animal welfare and the environment.
PETA continues to question Textile Exchange certifications
Despite these claims, PETA has repeatedly questioned Textile Exchange’s certifications over the years. This particularly applies to the Responsible Wool Standard (RWS). The organization considers this to be inadequate because it excludes the mulesing process.
In response to PETA’s recent campaign, a Textile Exchange spokesperson said it takes such allegations seriously, adding: “Our standards are based on the view that animal fibers can play a role in the fashion, clothing and textile industries when produced responsibly. We recognize that some organizations oppose the use of animal fibers entirely; our focus is on improving practices where these raw materials are produced.”
The organization goes on to say that third-party verification systems like theirs set clear criteria. These are complemented by independent audit and accountability mechanisms. This reduces the risk of activities causing unnecessary harm by creating an official platform to investigate and analyze complaints.
Credible concerns may result in suspension or revocation of certification if noncompliance is confirmed.
“It is also important to recognize that mohair production supports rural communities and farming families. Strengthening standards and oversight is essential to improving outcomes for animals while preserving these livelihoods,” the spokesperson said. “Textile Exchange will continue to work with certification bodies, supply chain partners and stakeholders to ensure certified systems meet the highest possible animal welfare standards and drive continuous improvements across the industry.”
PETA’s proposal will be discussed at the H&M general meeting
In its shareholder proposal, PETA calls on H&M to recommit to the mohair ban. Additionally, the organization has asked the board to “consider developing a plan to phase out all remaining materials of animal origin.”
The filing says H&M has an “obligation” to “correct course and comply with its animal welfare obligations.” This is particularly true given the public criticism of greenwashing allegations.
PETA continued: “Humane washing – portraying the treatment of animals as more ethical, compassionate or ‘humane’ than it actually is – poses comparable reputational and legal risks.”
“H&M Group can avert future negative impacts while keeping its promise to act ethically, transparently and responsibly. This can be done by reintroducing the mohair ban and developing a plan to phase out all remaining animal-based materials.”
H&M Group reiterates its commitment to animal welfare
In response to PETA’s recent action, H&M FashionUnited announced that it had noted the organization’s request for the upcoming general meeting. The company reiterated that animal welfare is important to the group. H&M emphasized that animal fibers are only sourced “from certified farms and, where quality and availability allow, from recycled sources.”
“We recognize the challenges of sourcing animal fiber and recognize our limitations as brands like ours do not purchase animal fiber directly,” the statement continued. “That’s why we rely on credible sustainability standards and certifications with strong governance structures that ensure transparency, accountability and continuous improvement.”
Regarding mohair in particular, H&M explained that the material is only sourced from farms that are RMS certified. “We take all allegations of animal welfare violations very seriously. Please refer to Textile Exchange for further information about the standard and ongoing investigations.”
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