Gucci makes it sparkle, Moschino wants peace

Sexy and glamorous – this is how the Gucci woman goes through autumn and winter 2024/25. The Italian luxury label’s latest collection with lots of lingerie, over-the-knee boots and sparkling sequins was presented on Friday afternoon on the occasion of Milan Fashion Week, which runs until Monday.

Gucci FW24 Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

This is Sabato De Sarno’s second season as creative director of Gucci. He uses elements from lingerie to make his fashion erotically charged and often uses strict military-looking coats or skirts as a contrast. He does the same thing with the boots. Although they reach well above the knee, the flat heels take away from the obsceneness. He contrasts short shorts with boxy pea coats. Other items of clothing, even coats, receive elaborate embroidery with sparkling sequins and glittering fringes. But there are also simple, long, narrow dresses in the collection.

Debut at Moschino

A new creative director, Adrian Appiolaza, made his debut at Moschino on Thursday evening. The Italian fashion house originally filled this position with Davide Renne in November 2023, but he died just a few days after his appointment.

Moschino Fall/Winter 2024
Moschino Fall/Winter 2024 Credits: Moschino

Moschino’s brand essence is irony. The Argentinian-born Appiolaza flashed them, for example by extending a classic men’s vest into a suspender belt or constructing a top out of ties. In the silhouette, he relies on length and layers, for example arranging a tiered, flounced skirt over trousers or a blouson with a skirt with a train. Bold slogans are also part of the classic Moschino codes. In fall/winter 2024/25, the message is particularly important: “Peace,” for example, is written in white on a black mohair dress.

This weekend, even more high-profile Italian fashion stars will be presenting at Milan Fashion Week, including Dolce & Gabbana and Giorgio Armani. (dpa)