The mood at London Fashion Week for Fall/Winter 2026 was noticeably subdued. Black set the tone, while burgundy red and brown provided nuanced variety. Army green, which had already played an important role in the Pre-Fall 2026 season and at NYFW AW26, remained dominant and underlined the utilitarian orientation of many looks. Gray once again asserted itself as the key color for elegant, tailored suits. Accents in navy and sky blue provide a fresh, seasonal contrast.
Among the numerous alternative and avant-garde designs, an impractical but effective creamy winter white also stood out. Worn from head to toe, it caused a stir on several catwalks as a striking contrast.
Neo-Gothic black
Black was the predominant color on the catwalks and was often used for designs with a neo-Gothic flair. Lace, tulle, embroidery and ribbon embellishments seemed clearly inspired by the remake of Emily Brontë’s dark masterpiece Wuthering Heights.
Creamy winter white
London designers used luxurious materials such as silk, faux fur, cashmere and mohair to create elegant separates in creamy winter white. A silk jumpsuit by Patrick McDowell featured 1930s-style details. At Edeline Lee, a wool coat with long fringes caught the eye, while another model at Joseph was accentuated with marabou-trimmed cuffs.
The ‘Groutfit’ returns
Designers took inspiration from classic menswear and reinterpreted tailored separates and elegant suits made from gray wool fabrics. At Erdem, a gray herringbone jacket with deliberately raw seams was shown, combined with a matching, also raw pleated skirt. Similarly, Emilia Wickstead presented a Prince of Wales check skirt with an open hem.
Army green
Army green proved to be a defining color on several London catwalks, establishing itself as a versatile neutral for utilitarian-inspired looks. Sinead Gorey presented a sweatshirt made of technical fabric with epaulettes, combined with matching trousers and cinched at the waist by a basque-style corset. Simone Rocha, meanwhile, collaborated with Adidas Originals to create designs that combine functional utility with a sporty touch.
Brown tones
Brown tones were used for structured garments in knits, crochet, tweed and wool. For Joseph, a dark brown top with matching ladder-stitch skirt was accented by a burgundy velvet belt. Agro Studio combined various checked, nubby and mottled tweeds in brown and pale yellow.
Sky and navy blue
Amidst a sea of dark and monotone colors, accents of navy and sky blue provided a visual respite on the London catwalks. Bora Aksu and Yasuko Furuta from Toga opted for a layered look. Alex S Yu added depth to a long, crinkled blue striped shirtdress with navy tulle trim and a dark denim overlay.
Is burgundy the new black?
A deep burgundy red proved to be a sophisticated, moody alternative to black. It established itself as a modern monochrome tone. At Temperley London, a coordinated dress and coat made a bold statement. Both were decorated with an intricate botanical floral print. The Burberry show closed out London Fashion Week with a series of looks in burgundy tones.
This article was created using digital tools translated.
FashionUnited uses artificial intelligence to speed up the translation of articles and improve the end result. They help us to make FashionUnited’s international reporting quickly and comprehensively accessible to a German-speaking readership. Articles translated using AI-based tools are proofread and carefully edited by our editors before they are published. If you have any questions or comments, please email [email protected]
