The increase in the contribution that fashion brands pay for the disposal of their products was officially determined at the past by ministerial decree. The demand of the old textile collectors, which are overwhelmed by the quantities of disposed of text situations, was fulfilled.
This amount or eco -contribution that works according to the causative principle – is now 223 euros per ton of sorted textile waste. Based on 250,000 sorted tons, this results in support of 55.75 million euros for 2025.
Before that, this was 156 euros per ton for the actors of the collection, sorting and reuse paid by the Environmental Organization Refashion. This amount will be increased to 228 euros per tonne in 2026; This corresponds to support of 57 million euros.
In Germany, two old clothing collectors have already registered bankruptcy.
- Textile recycler Soex reports bankruptcy
- Recycling specialist Texaid: Two German daughters register bankruptcy
- Re & Up boss: “The next two or three years will be the most exciting for the European textile industry”
Protest before fashion shops
The minister for ecological change, Agnès Pannier-Runacher, had committed to this increase in July. Previously, the French company had unloaded for the sorting of used textiles, Le relays, tons of clothes in front of several large retail stores such as Decathlon, Okaïdi, Kiabi and others and interrupted the collection at its collection points. Le relay called for more support for the industry.
Pierre Duponchel, Managing Director of Le Relais, accused Refashion, the current sorting industry in favor of the retail stores "suffocate" to want. Some of these shops, such as Kiabi, have started their own service for the sale of second-hand clothing.
The income of the industry shrinks. Clothing of good quality is now bought back from the brands or sold to Vinted. It is therefore no longer available to the non-profit second-hand shops. These enable the actor: on the inside of reuse, survival, but only with the clothing of poor quality.
The industry represents 3,000 jobs, including 2,000 at Le Relais. The company called for an increase to 304 euros per ton of sorted clothing.
Refashion, on the other hand, emphasized the "Sudden decline in export prices for sorted old textiles, mainly to Africa". The African countries are increasingly turning new clothes or second-hand clothing from Asia.
Around 270,000 tons of textile waste are collected in France every year. According to the report in 2023, Refashion "60 percent of the sorted products" resold as a second-hand clothing, 90 percent of them abroad.
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