In the latest edition of the Denim Fair Kingpins
The owner of Denim Dudes, Amy Leverton, presented four denim trends to be expected for the upcoming autumn/winter 2023 season.
The trend report was complemented by a presentation at the event showing a selection of looks for each trend. The exhibition was part of a new concept for this edition of the Kingpins. The fair selected a few exhibiting companies to give them the opportunity to show garments that they had designed and developed.
In keeping with the general mood of the fair, the trends Leverton examined reflected the current mood in society, touching on elements of escapism, post-apocalyptic optimism and a desire to give something back to the earth.
simulacrum
Closely linked to the growing popularity of a Balenciaga-inspired look and the blurring of the lines between reality and digital, this trend revolves around exploring the boundaries of the online world and how the Metaverse might impact real life. The word ‘simulacrum’ already sums up the concept itself, which is defined as ‘imitation of reality’.
This trend fits with current events. Brands are beginning to further explore the possibilities of a Metaverse presence by collaborating with tech companies, engaging in meta-marketing and releasing digital assets such as virtual reality clothing or NFT (non-fungible tokens) collections.
Many of the silhouettes featured in ‘Simulacrum’ focused on shielding the body from the outside world, evident in balloon-like shapes and exaggerated utility wear that reflect the sense of defiance surrounding the trend. The comeback of past trends is also very much present, such as the revival of low-rise jeans and acid wash techniques that made their mark on the late ’90s and early ’00s.
The colors of this trend range from dark and moody, indicating its apocalyptic traits, to more saturated online hues, such as bright orange and electric blue.
The Outsiders
This trend also draws on post-apocalyptic themes, but unlike the dark, digital inspirations, ‘The Outsiders’ is about optimism and a deep connection with the earth. Crafts, homegrown produce and agricultural techniques are high on this trend, with an emphasis on clothing that has a strong meaning to people.
The aesthetic ties in closely with a trend from last year: Goblincore, which emphasized the rejection of capitalist structures through eco-friendly clothing.
Particular emphasis has been placed on natural washes and mineral tones, which are reflected in the trend’s colours, which also include military greens and indigos. However, these stand in stark contrast to neon orange and bright yellow, which have been shown at the opposite end of the spectrum and are closely associated with hippie culture.
wonder
Responding to people’s yearning to fill the void left by the pandemic, ‘Wonderment’ focuses on a sense of escapism, with clothing that is intimately connected to people’s emotions. Similar to the current dopamine dressing movement, this trend is all about expressing joy and playfulness through bold styling and color choices.
A particular highlight is the influence of the late Virgil Abloh, whose work encouraged young designers to bring happiness to high fashion. This influence is evident in cartoonish designs, handcrafted details, repurposed textiles and psychedelic finishes, all of which encapsulate the vibrancy of this trend.
Each color in ‘Wonderment’ is meant to be played with. This crucial element of the trend relies on experimentation, expressionism and creativity. Vibrant yellows, blues and oranges blend into one another, offering a wide range of color options meant to be worn all year round.
softly
Dubbed one of the season’s more commercial trends, ‘Softly’ takes a more philanthropic approach to fashion, with a focus on slow-growing companies and products with a low environmental footprint. Authentic storytelling is a core part of ‘Softly’. Brands are encouraged to preserve their origins, tell cultural stories and respect deep-rooted traditions by caring for both the planet and its people.
As the name suggests, the color scheme of ‘Softly’ revolves around pastels and autumnal shades, with special attention to raw materials and processes such as untreated denim and natural dyes.
As with the other trends, recycling and upcycling are key features, but elevate them by employing techniques such as shibori, tie-dye and hand embroidery. In keeping with the calm and serenity that ‘Softly’ explored, silhouettes are defined through the use of cocooning, long lengths and simplified workwear.
This article was previously published on FashionUnited.uk. Translation and editing: Barbara Russ.
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