It is nothing new that traditional gender roles have changed in Western society in recent years. But how these changes affect menswear this season always comes as a surprise. The developments initiated years ago are constantly taking on new forms. During Modefabriek, trend forecaster Mehtap Güngormez presented her vision of the ‘new man’ – and what this figure means for menswear for years to come.
According to Güngormez’s vision, men are increasingly stepping out of traditional role models today. Men are looking for meaning. The imbalance in the world created by crises, polarization and war is reflected in fashion. While it used to be about moderate and average perspectives, extremes are now being sought. This has many negative implications, but also some good ones: there is more room to play with the basic building blocks of masculinity and reinterpret them in your own way. Vulnerability also takes up more space.
The Real Currency: Room for your own beliefs
This leads to a trend that Güngormez calls “the real currency”, i.e. what really matters. Authenticity, a word that has been used more and more in recent years and seems to be reaching a climax, is an important aspect of the ‘new man’. Men have more leeway to develop a strong, idiosyncratic character. They take their place as a ‘real’ person, with authentic beliefs and feelings, instead of a role to fill. Güngormez cites rapper A$ap Rocky and designer Aimé Leon Dore as examples of this. Leon Dore plays with the balance within streetwear, once associated mostly with hip-hop, by authentically connecting it with American sportswear.
Interestingly, according to Güngormez, the tie is also making a comeback thanks to authentic reinterpretations. “Now that the suit is no longer mainstream, it is once again being valued by innovators. People are taking elements of it and giving them new meaning, like rapper Tyler, the Creator.” So today, the suit isn’t worn in the traditional, formal way we know from Georgio Armani, but with Beanie, hoodie and sneakers.
Paradigm shift: The digital underpins the mystical
There is little room for mystery in the modern world. Even the most specific information is just a few clicks away, and religion matters to fewer and fewer people. Because of this, Güngormez says, men are seeking new forms of meaning through spirituality, yoga, meditation, silent retreats, and psychedelics: common practices today to deal with the speed of society.
In men’s fashion, this is aesthetically implemented through materials and patterns. There are visual references to the Stone Age, ‘occult’ symbolism, funghi and psychedelic visual effects. This is where the digital and the mystical meet and artificial intelligence (AI) plays an important role. Many of the patterns were generated by the AI. The rise of AI and all the questions and concerns that come with it seem to be incorporated into the clothing through a visual effects game that makes you wonder what’s real and what’s fake, like a pair of distorted jeans by Dolev Elron and Diesel .
The need to ground oneself in this digital world leads to an increased use of natural fabrics such as linen and hemp. The gorpcore trend (wearing functional outdoor clothing outside of its intended purpose) is of course also related to this and is expressed on another level in what Güngormez calls ‘ninja tech’. Here, outdoors is used in everyday life to protect against extreme, unpredictable weather conditions. Covering the nose and mouth for fashion reasons, which has so far mostly been observed among younger generations, is an example of this. ‘Puffiness’ also falls under this theme, ie puffer jackets and other padded items of clothing. The bomber jacket, which never really disappeared, is experiencing a revival.
New Surrealism: The Role of Fantasy
A new playfulness in fashion is now catching on among men too. Fashionable men are becoming the new norm, Gungormez explains. In keeping with the theme of authenticity, this is manifested in gimmickry and fantasy that at its most extreme takes on surrealistic excesses. Colm Dillane, founder of the KidSuper brand and designer of Louis Vuitton’s recently launched FW23 men’s collection, translates the trend into colorful patterns inspired by fun and creativity. Güngormez describes this colorful and imaginative aesthetic as a “new surrealism”. An important development in men’s fashion, which has a more serious undertone, especially in the past, but also today.
Retro elements are also making a comeback under the guise of playfulness, according to Güngormez. Alessandro Michele introduced this trend at Gucci, with his flamboyant style rich in 1970s colors. This also leaves room for truly iconic pieces, such as the chunky-soled loafers known from Prada or vintage duffle coats.
The future of streetwear
The future of streetwear in general, which has recently been questioned by the likes of Business of Fashion and Vogue Business, was also addressed in one of the audience questions at the end of Güngormez’s talk. The answer? Streetwear is too big a part to just fall away. It will remain relevant, albeit in new forms. So the development of men’s (fashion) in our society in the coming years will go hand in hand with what we can expect from streetwear.
This item was previously on FashionUnited.nl
published. Translation and editing: Barbara Russ