THEnfinitely magnetic, almost otherworldly, unattainable as a firmament of stars: The divas are like this. Enchantment and mystery, magic and attraction. Their timeless charm pervades the rooms of the Como silk museum, where Divine fashion, open to September 21sttells the meeting between Fashion and embodied myths.
An immersive journey through Spectacular creations, sketches, author’s photographs, contemporary paintings signed by Luca Gandola, Precious fabrics, sculpted silhouettes And details that transform a woman into an icon.
“In this exhibition everything revolves around theI live as a narrative device: A tool with which the diva represents itself, communicates its talent and affirms its identity »explains Chiara Ghizzoni, curator of the exhibition and project manager of the only museum in the world entirely dedicated to silk and to the story of its production cycle, from the Baco to the yarns, up hand -printing and collections.
A creation of Cristobal Balenciaga (1895-1972): he did not limit himself to the model, he also invented this type of fabric, the silk gazar (PH: David Bailey/Cone Nast via Getty Images).
In fact, they are clothes and accessories that seal the charismatic force of legendary personality, becoming tangible manifestations of their aura. To make one possible similar expressive power It has always been the manufacturing of the Seric Textile District of Como, which obtained the recognition of “Creative City” from UNESCO.
To inaugurate this itinerary between dream and wonderthe result of a long research work and carried out thanks to the collaboration with foundations and archivesis a portrait signed by the photographer Ghitta Carell who immortalizes Violante Visconti di Modrone, with the amazing profile and shiny wave hair. Reserved and chiclady of the jet set and wife of Carlo Caracciolo of Castagneto and Melito, one of the most important Italian publishersViolante wears a candid drapeous dress reminiscent of i peples of the goddesses of antiquity. The term “diva”, moreover, has etymological roots that refer to sacred and al divine.
Actress Audrey Hepburn with the French stylist Hubert de Givenchy in her atelier, in Paris (Ph: Sunset Boulevard/Corbis via Getty Images).
«Before even if icon or star, The diva is an oracle – underlines Ghizzoni – Figure bridge between humanity and gods, which communicates through a special language. In the initial section of the exhibition we inspired us Tunics of the divinters of the Greek-Roman worldin particular to the pizia, the priestess of Apollo to Delphi, who in trance pronounced enigmatic responses ». This link with the unknownwith a form of knowing more, defines one of the most fascinating aspects of the phenomenology of diva: his contact with the invisible, his impenetrable power. «Like a daimon, an unreliable inner force, it is the very heart of the diva: a talent that changes over timebut which always reveals its exceptional and unrepeatable nature ».
Rosa Genoni, Made in Italy pioneer
To bridge the past between past and present is the white dress of the air brand of Nicole Cavallo, in silk chiffon Hand draped, with folds fixed by invisible points. The model recalls the 1930s of Madame Grès, Pretesignana del sophisticated minimalismcreative of clothes-sculpture inspired by the ancient world. When the dress wears the diva can start revolutions.
A chiffon dress of the air brand that recalls the 1930s models of Madame Grès.
This is demonstrated by the Tanagra model created by Rosa Genoni, Made in Italy pioneer. On display, the only specimen remained, inspired by Ancient Greek statuettes terracotta. He was worn by hedge on 29 April 1908 in Rome at the first national congress of Italian women, where he pronounced an epochal discourse on Fashion as a means of expression of culture and history of our country, an instrument capable of opening to women New roads.
Lyda Borelli also dressed it, Primadonna of the theater and diva del Mutoin the piece Giacomina’s wedding at the Olimpia Theater in Milan. Beautiful, flexuous, passionate about cars and aerial crossings, female independence watterwas among the first to dare the juelottethe trouser skirt. He also won the Tanagra as political act in favor of the battle of Genoni: emancipate itself from the French couture for one all Italian fashion, The result of creativity and artisan knowledge.
The image of the diva is the result of careful visual construction. And it is through the dress that the figure of the diva takes shape, imposes itself, Become legend. In the 1920s and 1930s, Joséphine Baker, the famous Venus of Ebony of the Music Hall, revolutionized the scene with bold looks, anticipating the codes of a new female freedom. A charleston style dress from the archives of the silk museum evokes theEnergy and sensuality: Silk georgette and fringes of beads that reply lights and rhythm.
From Balenciaga to Valentino
In the 1940s Irene LentzHollywood costume designer from tragic fate (he lost his life by throwing himself from the eleventh floor of a hotel), called by the newspapers the “Queen of American fashion”, he held up as Marlene Dietrich and Ingrid Bergman. His is the crêpe and satin dress embroidered with golden threadfound in the Como Archive of Ostinelli Seta.
«The diva is like a be mythological With superhuman characteristics, “says Ghizzoni. «But to become such it needs a dress and one creative relationship with a stylist, or with a stylist. If fashions change, this alliance It remains essential ». Hubert de Givenchy “On display there is his rose -shaped circle,” he transformed Audrey Hepburn into an icon. In Italy, the designer Biki, aka Elvira Leonardi Bouyeurebuilt – together with the trusted designer Alain Reynaud – the myth of the star lyric Maria Callas With a real handbook of glamorous rules: suit with short gloves, décolleté shoes and crocodile bags, lively cloaks combined with turban ton sur ton and contrast accessories. On display, an extraordinary one sheath dress with embroidered silk taffeta with color beads and sequins, emblem of the stylist’s inspiration.
Maria Callas tried an overcoat in Milan, in 1958, under the watchful gaze of the stylist Biki (per century, Elvira Leonardi Bouyeure).
Emilio Schuberththe “tailor of the divers”, dressed instead Gina Lollobrigida and Sophia Loren, The two Italian stars of the cinemaconsidered rival: immortalized by great photographers such as Elio Luxardo, enchanted the world. It is all to be admired his sumptuous Silk creation of dégradé With the color that fades from intense burgundy to rose very light crossed by black bands. The dress, probably produced in Como, where already then the dyeing techniques they were at the forefront, testifies The very high level of Italian textile production. The thread of the silk combines so fashionable, large couturier and dive.
From Valentino Garavani, present with Tirelle di Chiffon in its historic scarlet shade up to Cristóbal Balenciaga with precious original sketches, coming from the museum archive, which capture the lines of clothes to be built on the bodies of women symbol of elegance of the caliber of Grace Kelly. It was Balenciaga who invented together with Gustav Zumstegfabric designer for the Tessile Abraham company, the Silk gazarmaterial capable of creating volumes and three -dimensionality through the only fabric.
The exception of Zendaya and Dua Lipa
The concept of diva, like the dress that wears it, is constantly evolving. In the 90s, with Gianni Versaceit was the top model who embodied the new ideal: sensual womenwho paraded as modern goddesses. On display, some scarf tell the style of this designer through, for example, the printed silk in picture and the use of decorative processes Ancient like the dévoré, a technique born in France between the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, which gives transparencies and reliefs.
Ornella Vanoni at the Sanremo Festival in 2018 with a creation of Antonio Riva, now on display in Como (Ph: Venturelli/Wireimage).
And, today, Who are the new divers? The multicolor mesh dress of Jean Paul Gaultier of the early 2000s appeared in the wardrobe of Kylie Jenner. The silk suit of Antonio Rivaexclusive creation for Ornella Vanoni, accompanied her to Sanremo in 2018. The vintage wedding dress of Yves Saint Laurent worn by Celeste from the door In an exclusive video for the exhibition, coming from the collection of the Stylist Amelianna Loiacono, a circle closes: The diva reinvents the dress.
“The influencers resemble more a testimonial That in Vere dive »observes Ghizzoni. «Today celebrities often tell themselves on social media, removing every halo of legend. But, Without mystery, the diva does not exist. The charisma is also missing, the aura that still belongs only to certain singers or artists as Marina Abramovićcapable of making sense of gestures ».
Actresses and music stars like Zendaya And Dua lipa still hold fragments of that unrepeatable alchemy between scenic presence, clothes and audiences. Because, the curator recalls: “Culture feeds on the diva, and the diva of the culture of his time”. And, as in a eternal returnfashion makes the diva. And the diva inevitably makes fashion.