Cthey are garments destined to remain forever in the history of fashion. Some of them have written history: this is the case of the iconic deconstructed jacket for womenone of the greatest insights of Armani who contributed to consecrating him with the name of King George.
Free from constraints and with a soft cut, the Armani jacket it not only marked an era – that of the Eighties – but she became the spokesperson for a new idea of female empowermentfree from the rigidities of the past. And, just as happens with the great classics, it still sets the trend today.
Women’s unstructured jacket: Armani’s invention
It was at the end of the Seventies that Giorgio Armani decided that the women’s jacket needed to be lightened: away the padding, the rigid linings and the important shoulder padsuntil then essential in traditional tailoring. The new modelsfrom that moment called “destructured”, they embrace fluid and light fabricsthey naturally accompany the shapes of the body and introduce a new idea of elegance.
A symbol of empowerment
The success of the unstructured jacket it not only revolutionizes tailoring, but it also redefines the perception of female power. An emblem of authority, the blazer designed by Armani turns into a precious ally for the most modern women of the time, who want to see their authority recognized both at work and in social life.
A deconstructed jacket from Giorgio Armani’s Spring-Summer 1991 show (Credits: Getty Images).
Even celebrities are fascinated by it. Among the most unforgettable looks of that period is that of Julia Roberts at the 1990 Golden Globes ceremony: an oversized suit designed by Giorgio Armani himself, purchased shortly before in the men’s department of the Rodeo Drive boutique, with which the actress appears on the red carpet after winning her first statuette for her performance in Steel Flowers. An unusual outfit for a woman on the red carpet in those times, which will become an undisputed symbol of female empowerment over the years.
Julia Roberts wears a suit with an unstructured jacket at the 1990 Golden Globes ceremony (Credits: Getty Images).
The most beautiful models from the Spring-Summer 2026 fashion shows
Strengthened by its ten-year history, the deconstructed jacket also conquers the Spring-Summer 2026 collections. At Armani there is a riot of lightness: blazers so soft that they seem almost impalpable, which fall perfectly along the hips and are worn with matching trousers. From Jil Sanderhowever, it is the midi skirt that accompanies the single-breasted model, essential and irresistibly chic.
From the Emporio Armani Spring-Summer 2026 collection (Credits: Spotlight Launchmetrics).
At Prada and Michael Kors Collection, the proportions tend towards oversize: the jackets, large and voluminous, are worn open, revealing overlapping layers and plays of fabrics that accentuate the freedom of movement. Gray and black are the most popular colours, with some white accents (Coach) or less conventional ones (Acne Studios).
A chromatic palette which, not surprisingly, veers towards the neutral tones loved by the Maestro.
