dfor months we talked of nothing else. Daniel Lee’s debut as creative director of Burberry it was undoubtedly the most awaited event of London Fashion Week 2023. And the fashion show of the men’s and women’s collections Autumn-Winter 2023/2024 staged in a tensile structure in Kennington park, south London, it shows the new direction taken by the designer, who succeeds Riccardo Tisci and Christopher Bailey.
Former stylist of Bottega Veneta37 years old, English – originally from Bradford – Daniel Lee has mixed his previous work experiences with the heritage of the fashion house, adding a touch of coolness all British. To prove it, the stars flocked to the front row and even on the catwalk, from Jodie Comer to Naomi Campbell to Irish Law. Among more or less subliminal messages, evocative prints, already must-have accessories and colors, here’s everything you need to know about the most talked about fashion show of the season.
Heritage revisited: from the logo to the trench coat
The return of the logo of mythical equestrian knight with the distinctive motto Prorsum – After you! – already used by the fashion house since 1901. But also one archive studywhich brings the legendary trench coat, the hunting jacket, the checkrain or horse riding galoshes.
A Burberry FW23/24 look (Photo: Spotlight Launchmetrics).
No mere quotation, rather several reinterpretations of the originals: outerwear becomes oversized and decorated with details and collars faux fur contrasting; the English checked motif dresses in colour, the shoes with notable buckles.
And one makes way too rose printheraldic emblem of the country, which seem to have come out of a well-kept and colorful English garden – where, however, Roses aren’t always red.
A Burberry FW23/24 look (Photo: Spotlight Launchmetrics).
After the Verde Bottega, the Royal Blue
In short, those who expected to see the classic beige tartan motif back on the field will be disappointed. On the other hand, Daniel Lee – to whom we owe the success of what in the common imagination has become the “Shop Green” in his years, from 2018 to 2021, at the helm of the Maison – for the new Burberry fashion show he relies entirely on other nuances. And to get noticed is definitely the Royal Blueone of the most English tones there is: electric, recognizable. The start of a new craze?
A detail of Burberry FW23/24 (Photo: Spotlight Launchmetrics).
The winds of change. And other messages
A new era, a change for everyone, from the designer himself to the Maison. Symbolized on the catwalk by some slightly subliminal messages: on punk-style t-shirt (a tribute to Vivienne Westwood?) the writing appears The winds of change. A funny print Ducks stylized on midi dresses echoes the motto Lovely weather for ducks!used by the British ironically when there is a thunderstorm in sight.
A detail of Burberry FW23/24 (Photo: Spotlight Launchmetrics).
Lee’s obsession with accessories
If there’s one segment that Lee has proven to be good at in the past, it’s the accessories. To him the merit of having made desirable the bags and the shoes by Bottega Veneta, with the creation of some new models such as the legendary one Pouches and the Jodie, now cult. Will he succeed in the same mission at Burberry? What is certain is that his eyes were all focused on pouch in the shape of a hot water bottlefeathered sandals and hobos with fur tails and horse-shaped pendants.
A detail of Burberry FW23/24 (Photo: Spotlight Launchmetrics).
Stellar fans to everything Brit from Iris Law to Jodie Comer
Finally, the choice of the parterre and testimonials. Already with the Spring-Summer 2023 campaign anticipated on Instagram, the direction was clear: the Burberry circle is more English than ever. If in the shots of Tyrone Lebon stood out Lennon Gallagher (model and son of Liam Gallagher of the English band Oasis), reigned supreme on the catwalk Iris Lawdaughter of actor Jude, born in Primrose Hill in 2000.
Jodie Comer at the Burberry FW23/24 show (Photo: Spotlight Launchmetrics).
And to applaud her in the front row, there was the star of Killing Eve Jodie Comeroriginally from Liverpool, along with Naomi Campbell. Which, for the uninitiated, she was born in London in 1970 (!)…
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