The fashion industry is at a turning point. As Europe moves towards a circular economy, it is becoming increasingly clear that cotton cannot meet future demands. Global population growth, dwindling resources and stricter regulations are putting traditional materials under increasing pressure. In this context, the future of cotton in the European fashion industry appears highly uncertain.
Cotton: An environmental problem in numbers
Although cotton is often praised for its natural origins, the reality is less rosy. The production of the resulting material requires enormous amounts of resources: around 10,000 liters of water and one liter of chemicals are required to produce one kilogram of standard cotton. These chemicals, including pesticides, make sustainable or alternative land use much more difficult. The soils on which cotton is grown are depleted and take several years to regenerate – a situation that conflicts with the increasing need for agricultural land for food production.
In addition, cotton does not meet the European requirements for 2030. The goals stipulate that by then 50 percent of the materials should be recyclable and 25 percent should be fully circular. However, the cotton fiber is too small and weak to be completely circular. The only options are mixed fibers, which are often no longer recyclable.
European regulations are forcing changes
The European Union has set itself ambitious goals: by 2030, 50 percent of the materials used should be recyclable and 25 percent should be fully circular. By 2050, all materials should be completely recycled. These requirements increase the pressure on the industry to get rid of materials that do not meet these requirements. Despite the industry’s efforts, cotton is not completely circular due to the inherent weaknesses of the short fiber.
The urgency is highlighted by Earth Overshoot Day, when annual consumption of natural resources exceeds Earth’s capacity. Worldwide, this day now falls on a date before August, while the Netherlands already exceeded this threshold on April 1st this year. With the current production and consumption pattern, the Netherlands would need the resources of four Earths.
However, clear guidelines from Europe are still missing, while the pressure to act is growing. Stricter guidelines such as the Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CSDDD) and the Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive (CSRD) impose obligations on companies, but leave the question open as to whether these measures are sufficient.
From due diligence to binding measures
The concept of “due diligence” – recording the impact of companies on people and the environment – is intended as a step towards greater care. However, if the reports are not complemented by concrete measures, this process becomes less important.
In addition, the implementation of uniform European standards is proving difficult. In regions such as Asia, North Africa or Turkey, there are often different general conditions that make it more difficult to implement European requirements without economic losses. Where regulations no longer apply, a ban seems inevitable. European regulations must therefore be clear and uniform so that producers know exactly what is expected of them. As long as there is room for interpretation and national variation, efforts will remain fragmented and ineffective.
Alternatives and innovations
Although a cotton ban may seem drastic, it may be necessary in the long term. The ecological and social damage caused by cotton has been clearly proven. Fortunately, there are promising alternatives – from innovative textile fibers to advanced recycling technologies.
However, the transition to a circular economy, which is expected to become standard in Europe by 2050, requires consistent action today. In order to reduce dependence on problematic raw materials such as cotton, a clear strategy and decisive measures are required.
The message is clear: the waiting must end. If the fashion and textile industries don’t take decisive steps soon, a cotton ban could become a reality by 2030. The focus must be on developing innovative alternatives and working together on circular solutions. This is the only way to ensure a stable and livable future for both industry and our planet.