Calvin Klein Collection parade: Veronica Leoni’s debut

NUovi starts. In one New York Fashion Week orphaned of Proenza Schouler (after the farewell of the two founders and designers) e Ralph Laurenall eyes were focused on Calvin Klein Collection parade.

The event, staged in the New York morning of February 7, was expected for several reasons. The long symbol of American youth culture – and its style – has returned to the official calendar of the NFYW after almost seven years of absence. A long period of pause resulting from the departure of the former creative director Raf Simonsin a wider attempt to rethink and relaunch the “higher” collection of the brand. Starting from the appointment of a new designer, the Italian very Italian Veronica Leonithe first woman at the head of the brand with a respectable CV behind it. The right ingredients, in short, to grow expectations in view of the Calvin Klein Collection Autumn-winter 2025/26 parade.

Veronica Leoni’s debut

41 years old, born in Rome, The new Creative Director of Calvin Klein He knows he has been an unexpected choice for the American brand. “A European project would have been a more obvious combination,” said the stylist to New York Times. «In a sense, Calvin has always been with me. I am part of the CK One generation. As a girl I really felt that Calvin Klein, especially from a European point of view, represented the imagination of a distant world where everyone was cool, “concluded Leoni. The designer, in any case, made his bones from Jil Sander, moving to Céline Of Phoebe Philowhere he worked alongside young people Matthieu Blazy, Daniel Lee and Peter Do. Then continuing from Moncler And The Rowup to the foundation of his brand, Quirain honor of the grandmother who taught them to sew, finalist of the Lvmh Prize in 2023.

Calvin Klein Collection parade: looking for the sexitude leak

This is the word with which Leoni defined the spirit of the brand, today part of the PVH group. An innate attitude towards a certain sensuality and an idea of freedom Able to scandalize and become a costume phenomenon in the nineties, when advertising campaigns with Kate Moss and Mark Wahlberg covered the walls of New York. An inclination that according to many was lost over the years under the guidance of Raf Simons, more concentrated on an analysis of the contemporary American dream. In 2025, however, the point of view changed. “Most of the time we see women like the objects of wish. But what if they become the people who wish? ” he declared Leoni al Nyt.

For Leoni, therefore, imagining the new Calvin Klein has only partially coincided with the rediscovery of thearchive of the brand. For example, they stand out dancers in silk with a square tip, re -edition of an IT Shoe released in 1999. For the rest, however, it was to return to that «monumental minimalism»Symbol of Calvin Klein’s collections between the nineties and two thousand. The parade co-anddedicated to both the collection woman That manhowever, is not unisex. A setting that has a lot to do with the idea of tailoring of the new creative director, known for a precise and rigorous tailoring, called to adapt to different bodies and figures.

The autumn-winter 2025/26 collection

To dominate the proposal by Leoni, therefore, are precise and essential lines, adhering or fluid. For example, the ensemble made up of tailoring pants second-skin accompanied by sweaters from V. I suit They look to the past while remaining anchored to the present, thanks to structured outerwear combined with coordinated skirts. Stratified outfits alternate with well -defined coats, ready to conquer fashionists from all over the world. Shiny and precious fabrics coexist with voluminous and thick textures, such as those that characterize oversize jackets or complete cooked jersey style. In any case, there is no shortage of more romantic and feminine touches, expressed through sheaths that discover the shoulders or long and ethereal drapeous clothes. The color palette ranges from black to purest white, without giving up a very chic gray, night blue and butter and beige accents.

An intergenerational front row

The stars parade who witnessed the debut of the new Calvin Klein testifies to the desire for the brand to speak to different generations. For example, the two faces that most of all embodied the CK spirit could not be missing, Kate Moss And Christy Turlingtonaccompanied by daughter Grace Burns. Together with Mr Calvin Klein himself, then, they were present Bad Bunny, Greta Lee, Eve Hewsonthe actor Alexander Skarsgårdin addition to the star of Bridgengeron Simone Ashley and Louise Jacobson.

The New York Fashion Week thus finds a brand symbol of the aesthetics and soul of the city. A name capable of making the appointment in the Big Apple again exciting and unmissable.

As in the nineties.

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